Articles, Blog

Build your own 3D Printer: Which hotend to pick!

November 13, 2019

So this is what the iTopie i3 looks like now
– you’ll notice that Luke decided to go with a modern penta-color paint job with the
classic white and black main elements, metallic silver and gold on the feet to match brass
and steel details on the printer’s mechanics, and they all nicely complement the bright
red printed parts. So as you can tell, it’s going to be a very classy printer once he
actually gets around to finishing it. Today though, i want to specifically focus on one
element, which isn’t even in here yet: The hotend. Hi everyone, Tom here, and picking a hotend
that is right for your idea of the printer you want to build can be somewhat daunting
with so many choices out there. But once you start breaking them down, there really are
only a few factors that define what type of hotend you’re dealing with and what sort
of performance you should expect from it. Now, the biggest factor and the one you’re
going to see right away because it’s going to be shoved in your face is “all metal”
or PTFE-based. Let’s start with the very first hotend i used, this thing, not an all-metal
design, obviously, it’s got a mount made from PEEK, which is a super-strong plastic
that doesn’t melt until, like 300°C, so way beyond what you’d typically use with 3D
printing filaments. And the PEEK provides both the insulation between the heater block
and the mount as well as the mechanical strength, after all, there is an extruder pushing filament
into this thing. You can see that the heater block down here, where the filament melts,
has pretty much a direct thermal path up to the PEEK part. But because PEEK isn’t really
slippery, the hotend would constantly jam if it didn’t have a PTFE aka Teflon insert
in here, and while you often still see PTFE inserts with newer all-metal hotends, this
one reaches down all the way into the heater block. All-metal hotends, like the E3D v6,
the recently reviewed DyzeEND-X or many other hotends, either have the PTFE liner stop somewhere
in their heatsink or don’t use a liner at all. Now, the consequences from using a PTFE
liner are diverse, the most obvious one being that you can use all-metal, or, more precisely
PTFE-free hotends up to a higher maximum temperature. Reason being, PTFE starts to really soften
beyond 250, 260°C and somewhere in that range, also start releasing gaseous neurotoxins – which
is the same reason why you shouldn’t leave Teflon-coated pans on the stove for too long
without anything in them. So while all all-metal hotends easily go up to 300°C and some even
further, the safe usable temperature range for hotends that use a PTFE-liner or insulator
for anything that’s touching the heater block ends at those 260°C max. As far as
robustness and reliability goes, you could argue both ways – all-metal hotends use a
heat break that is machined to have a very thin stainless steel tube section as an insulator,
and naturally, that section is fairly easy to bend and break and at the same time, is
pretty tricky to manufacture with a smooth inside bore to prevent filaments like PLA
from sticking to the hot metal sides. On the other hand, the PTFE liner can leak if assembled
with too little pressure and, worst case, kink and block the filament path if assembled
with too much pressure and used with too high of a temperature, but they tend to provide
an easier filament pushing experience for the extruder, which can be particularly helpful
with flexible filaments. You can also get hybrid types, like the E3D lite6, Printrbot
Ubis 13s or the soon-to-be-reviewed Flexion hotend, those still have a PTFE liner all
the way into the melt zone but also use stainless steel as a structural and insulating element,
cutting out the cost for a large chunk of PEEK as an insulator or for a precisely machined
heat break. Both PTFE-based and all-metal hotends can
work extremely reliably with PLA, PET and many other not-so demanding plastics, but
for regular use with ABS or even more extreme plastics, you should definitely go with an
all-metal hotend. Ok, so that’s been a lot of talk on one
subject, let’s look into what else i’d look for in a hotend. And let’s start out
with the overall geometry – how big is it, will it fit your particular printer and extruder?
Is it too short or too long? All very simple things, but easily overlooked. So the de facto
standard for hotend mounting, is this 16mm groovemount. While many hotends might look
similar or compatible, there are minor differences between them that keep them from being universally
cross compatible – not even the E3D v5 and v6 use the exact same mounting geometry. And
really, for that, there’s not much else to say than “in case of doubt, check with
the manufacturer”, there are simply too many different extruder mounts and hotends
out there. Next up, length and girth. Now, a long hotend is usually not going to hurt
anything, at worst, you might lose a few millimeters of vertical build space, but a hotend that
is too short can cause issues in two spots, other than self-confidence – one, you might
end up bottoming out your Z-drive, and two, at the actual carriage that, well, carries,
the hotend, there’s typically going to be bearings and sensors and what not sticking
out the bottom there, so make sure the hotend is actually the lowest part out of those.
Then, the circumference of the entire hotend assembly. This is the size of a classic PEEK-based
hotend like the original Ubis or the Jhead or whatever, and this is what a modern all-metal
one looks like, so, obviously, if the printer you want to build only has space for a super
slim one, then obviously, buying one that is this big isn’t really the smartest thing
to do. And keep in mind you might need to fit things like a bed sensor and part cooling
fan around the hotend as well. Though, i’ve got to say, newer printer designs typically
have the space to fit even the larger hotend types.
Ok, so one more thing about geometry, there’s basically three zones in any hotend, and ones
that have these zones clearly separated tend to have the most predictable performance.
There’s the cold end, the transition zone and the melt zone, and the mistake some manufacturers
have made with all-metal types was to not properly define the transition zone, so depending
on what print settings you used, the filament would start to soften at an arbitrary point
somewhere above the melt zone, and cause some whacky behaviour. This isn’t as crucial
in PTFE-lined hotends, as the liner will insulate the filament and compensate a lot for this
sort of wonky behavior, but for all-metal types, having a sharp transition from the
cold zone to the transition zone to the hot zone is pretty crucial. So the cold end will
typically not be much warmer than ambient if you have a fan blowing over it, as most
hotends do these days. It’s not really crucial how exactly the cold end looks as long as
it’s doing its job of cooling well enough, so let’s move on to the transition zone,
which is the weakest, but also the most important part of any all-metal hotend. Essentially,
a longer transition zone leaves more plastic in a semi-molten sticky gooey state, so ideally
you want that zone to be as short as possible. Most hotends get this about right, but be
careful with ones that seem to have a particularly long transition zone. On hotends with a PTFE
liner, there often isn’t a dedicated transition zone per se, which is ok for them. And lastly,
the melt zone, this one will be at a consistent temperature throughout, and, basically, the
longer it is, the faster you’ll be able to print with a given set temperature. Which
is why the E3D Volcano is so ridiculously long. But with a longer melt zone you do lose
some precision and increase stringing and blobbing, while a shorter than usual melt
zone will need higher temperatures to print since the plastic has less time to heat up
in there. One more very important point is serviceability-
sooner or later, you’re going to have a jam or break something on the hotend. Now,
if you’ve got one that has like a one-piece nozzle heat break connector thing, there’s
no way you’ll clean that in any decent amount of time, and if you have to replace it for
example should you bend it, you’ll obviously have to replace the entire thing. And while
we’re at nozzles and the likes, the standard nozzle size today is 0.4mm, which works for
a lot of different applications, if you want slightly faster build speeds and are ok with
slightly thicker layers, for example for a larger printer, 0.5mm or 0.6mm are still very
flexible sizes, and if you want to go the opposite way and get maximum precision and
detail resolution out of your printer, 0.3mm would still be an acceptable choice. I wouldn’t
recommend 0.2mm unless you really want to live on the bleeding edge, since you’ll
need to use insanely low layer heights and speeds to even profit from that kind of nozzle
size and you’ll be at constant risk of jamming your nozzle with even the tiniest particles.
But if you get a hotend that you can disassemble, you can always just swap in and try out a
different size if you want to. And one last note, especially with the hotend,
please do yourself a favor and buy genuine parts if you’re building your first printer
or don’t have the engineering or machining knowledge or simply not the time to figure
out how to make a clone work. I mean, they all look great in the pictures, but there
are so many things a Chinese manufacturer will be able to mess up when he’s only machining
these by some incomplete drawings and pictures he found online, some of the sellers even
claim to have improved the original designs, but it’s more like “well downright cloning
didn’t work, so here’s something we huddled up to make it somewhat functional” when
clearly, the ones manufacturing these don’t even know how the parts should properly fit
together. Look at this, this is completely unusable. Yes, i only paid 4$ for this, but
then again, you get what you pay for, and this sort of stuff isn’t what i would want
to deal with when getting a printer up and running.
So in general, the big names when it comes to hotends like E3D, the UBIS used in the
Printrbots, the Hexagon as used in Lulzbot’s printers, those are good all-round choices.
But if you want to go for something completely different you should now have a some guidelines
of what to look for. Anyways, thanks for watching, leave me a thumbs
up if you learned something, get subscribed if you want to learn even more in the future
or maybe even consider directly supporting this channel on Patreon. And that’s about
it for today, see you in the next one!


  • Reply Benjamin Wuest June 5, 2016 at 8:11 am

    just wanted to say I am deeply appreciative of the work you do and am a patrreon to the extent I can give.

  • Reply Leon Newton June 5, 2016 at 2:11 pm

    But hey , Chinese manufacture aren't ALL that bad. For eg. I've found one that has a decent hot end cylinder milled out, but the PTFE tube inside of each one wasn't all cut to the same size. Not that it was a problem since I could fix that easily. But then you get to the hot end nozzle bit, which wasn't 0.4 , just by looking at it I could tell. Finding another manufacturer online was easy , and got some 0.4 replacement nozzles in the mail last week, and they were perfect. It's just a matter of finding a decent manufacturer of these "Cloned parts". Cloned as in , a hot end's geometry is simple and as a result, many hot ends tend to look the same. Well they are all the same in some sense right? 😀 All that can truly vary is the quality in which they are made.

  • Reply Geeklány June 6, 2016 at 11:17 am

    +Sanladerer Danke für den Video, endlich mal eine gute Vergleich 🙂

  • Reply Karan Chaphekar June 6, 2016 at 5:01 pm

    I think just buying the ss part from e3d and other from china can be a good way to save money if you want more than 1

  • Reply Jonathan Lin June 7, 2016 at 2:13 am

    Is it better to have a extruder throat with a larger diameter going into the hot end or a smaller one?

  • Reply scrubngbubles June 8, 2016 at 7:33 pm

    excellent music, sounded like Minecraft. excellent video as well 🙂

  • Reply Tina Wiman June 10, 2016 at 3:56 pm

    Great info! Thanx!

  • Reply Pat Ayala June 11, 2016 at 9:24 am

    have you tried the flexion extruder?

  • Reply Aman Mo June 12, 2016 at 11:00 am

    what is that 5 foot tall delta printer

  • Reply bradley morgan June 13, 2016 at 4:31 am

    Voice at the beginning was smooth as anything I've ever heard..

  • Reply Geoxile June 13, 2016 at 6:33 pm

    Do you recommend insulating the hotend? Will it be useful outside of printing PLA with a fan blowing on it?

  • Reply Sougata Tikader Franch June 24, 2016 at 1:20 pm

    Hey, How to install e3d v6 /hotend in a 3D printer?? thanks

  • Reply Octo Cat June 25, 2016 at 9:39 am

    Awesome video Thomas, guess you've got few dislikes from China xD Tbh, they do have good clones of E3D, just aim for reviews with pictures and most sells on aliexpress, but its still pain to find a good one.

  • Reply 3DPrinterChat.Com June 30, 2016 at 9:27 pm

    Great Video we are making a post about hotends on our site right now! I will link people to your channel to learn more. 🙂

  • Reply Atrixium July 15, 2016 at 12:07 am

    I built a Geeetech i3 Pro C and now I want to upgrade my MK8 hotends to allow printing more exotic materials like Taulman 910, any suggestions?

  • Reply Andrew Land August 2, 2016 at 5:53 am

    Nice music me like

  • Reply dunichtich100 August 29, 2016 at 9:55 am

    Kannst du bitte ein review über das Geeetech "2 in 1 out Hotend" ?^^

  • Reply trillob1t3 September 6, 2016 at 8:16 pm

    Working on a RepRap all-metal conversion experiment. I got a stainless steel all-metal heat-break, and can set the proper "transition zone" gap etc… But, my question is really, if PTFE's limit is around, lets say, 240*C, what about the small PTFE insulation around the thermistor wires on typical RepRap/i3 heat blocks?

    How do the typical all-metal heat blocks mount their thermistors? I found some heat blocks that utilize a brass M3 threaded 100k thermistor, but even they still utilize some form of PTFE wire insulation. Are the M3 threaded thermistors a solution to the PTFE max temperature issue?

  • Reply dennisn8tkk September 21, 2016 at 11:35 pm

    Do you know what HOT END is in the MakerBot Replicator 2 ???

  • Reply My Lord October 14, 2016 at 3:13 am

    thanks for the video

  • Reply amtpdb1 October 14, 2016 at 5:26 am

    What was it that was a problem with the threaded heatbreak you showed at the end?

  • Reply Kali Kavanagh October 16, 2016 at 4:14 am

    thank u i am smarter now

  • Reply 500arend October 20, 2016 at 9:20 pm

    When u gone show and use a diamond hotend? Its hard to get it right. But it very very amazing what u can get from it!

  • Reply The Plasanator October 31, 2016 at 3:56 am

    very cool stuff

  • Reply I Dont Care November 9, 2016 at 5:05 am

    Nice asmr video

  • Reply Minkoe Cub3D November 12, 2016 at 6:45 pm

    I've never had a problem with a $12 e3D v6 lite clone. 6 months in and the only thing i've had to replace is the heater cartridge, because I twisted the hot end during a print and the wires shorted. Not so much as a jam has happened. The only thing I don't like is that it's a different size, so no already made designs really fit it, so i'm on my own trying to figure out how to active cool it

  • Reply Correct November 29, 2016 at 4:58 pm

    Abbreviation death…. wow…

  • Reply Connor Kroneberger December 12, 2016 at 8:26 pm


    I have a custom 3d printer running Marlin on the Azteeg X3 Pro with Arduino IDE 1.6.12. I am using Repetier and having problems setting up my Geeetech Mk8 dual extruder.
    Hot end 1 works fine and reads accurate temperatures with the thermistor connected to TEMP_SENSOR_0. The thermistor for hot end 2 is connected to TEMP_SENSOR_1 and also reads accurate temperatures. I have run PID autotune and changed Kp, Ki, Kd accordingly.

    If I turn on hot end 1, it heats up fine. When I try to heat hot end 2, it does not heat at all and eventually times out with a heating failed error loop.

    When printing, with hot end 1, everything works fine until around the second layer, hot end 2 randomly starts to heat up and eventually stops the print because it reaches maxtemp.

    I was wondering if you could shed some light on what may be going on here, and possibly recommend a fix.

    Also, I am not sure this is the appropriate place for such a specific question. Maybe you could direct me to a better place to ask things like this?

    Thanks a lot!

  • Reply andrius anryy January 2, 2017 at 5:43 pm

    hi, Very liked your video, can you write a good manufacturer name of the hotend manufacturer

  • Reply Roberts Kristins January 9, 2017 at 9:07 am

    8:52 why rice in the box ? 😀

  • Reply Pat Ayala January 11, 2017 at 9:59 am

    tom where did you get that frame :O

  • Reply Frank Davila February 7, 2017 at 4:31 am

    Tengo una inquietud, me han regalado una impresora 3D de las mas sencillas, una mini Delta, y usa una
    placa Ramp Plus 2 BT7200 y el hotend no calienta como debería, esta nueva y solo he impreso 3 cosas, un dia me descuide
    y las piezas plásticas del hotend se derritieron, no totalmente pero se pegaron tanto que unas no las puedo separar
    del hotend, a raíz de esto se me ocurrió fabricar mi propio hotend y recordé que los procesadores dañados se pueden
    modificar para producir calor y se me ocurrió que se puede colocar como termistor pero el área de un procesador es mas
    grande que la del termistor de siempre, ¿como se puede regulas la temperatura para que el procesador caliente a la
    temperatura requerida?
    En base a la idea que estoy sugiriendo les ruego me hagan una donación en satoshis o dolares a estas cuentas

    Cartera Bitcoin 19gDEqtJa7wpxjnYXFEz8xpztmfDGv7ZPw
    Cuenta okpay OK930837673

    Vivo en Venezuela y creo en las buenas ideas para economizar nuestras vidas y ayudar a otros, por ello
    pido una colaboración económica para mi situación tan difícil ademas de ayudarme a adquirir bienes fuera de mi

  • Reply Ralph February 15, 2017 at 12:22 am

    I dont see the issues people get with small nozzles. I use a knockoff e3d v6 lite, with knockoff 0.2mm nozzle. The clone has worked great for like 8 months, outlived two of my printers. All I did was replace the thermistor and heater cartridge. $1 0.2mm and $1 0.8mm nozzle all work great. Ive done 0.5mm and 0.06mm layer heights, fun stuff.

  • Reply ravener February 16, 2017 at 12:00 am

    i tried to buy a knockoff hot end, the hole wasnt drilled and it was basically a block of aluminum

  • Reply Venu Pokala February 22, 2017 at 1:14 pm


  • Reply Frédérik Desaulniers March 3, 2017 at 4:31 pm

    To anyone who wants to get into 3d printing, I would suggest sticking with PLA at first. The J-head hot-ends (the original ones from are probably the best option for printing PLA reliably.
    Disclaimer : I am not affiliated to them in any way.

  • Reply Daniel Skjeveland March 25, 2017 at 6:30 pm


  • Reply Brian Link March 26, 2017 at 12:22 am

    Video = Great! But… a little over exposed. Sure by the time you see this, You would have all ready did the fix. Just thought I'll add my 2 cents 🙂

  • Reply Matt R. April 19, 2017 at 6:08 pm

    Hello! IF I want to change the extruder of my Anet A8 which is indicated to have the best impressions? Maybe a link on Amazon. Many thanks!

  • Reply Ian Ide April 25, 2017 at 1:29 am

    Look at this "it's completely unusable"… Why?

  • Reply Sensei Dekkers April 30, 2017 at 3:03 am

    Why is the lulzbot so expensive? What benefits does the lulzbot have over the prusa i3 orsomething cheaper?

  • Reply Dennis Bondar May 11, 2017 at 7:11 pm

    "Other than self-confidence" The line that made my day 😀

  • Reply Cervan June 2, 2017 at 7:05 am

    i wonder if anyone else recognized the piano as Gyumnopedies Dai 1 Ban. nice choice.

  • Reply TheScrappingJeahaha June 22, 2017 at 1:36 pm

    I bought a E3D V6 Clone, it was around 7 Bucks with all the exteriour parts as fan hater and thermistor and PTFE tubing and fittings, disassembled it and didn't find any downsides, will buy a real one too to support the company but in the moment I have to keep this hobby on a budget

  • Reply dr07828 July 16, 2017 at 3:12 am

    I purchased an e3D clone of a v6 hot end. I didn't pay a lot for it, and it worked just fine at first. It got a bit unpredictable at times. I had an issue where I would have to pull the filament each time before a print, and chop semi melted end off to get it to print. I ended up buying an original e3d heat break that was all metal and I haven't had the issue since. The funny part is the price I paid for the clone and the heat break, for a few more dollars I could have got an original one…. But it prints like a champ now.

  • Reply MrGoatflakes July 16, 2017 at 6:07 pm

    Gaseous neurotoxins. Tasty 😀

  • Reply SomePlaceForVideos July 28, 2017 at 6:46 am

    4:57 he he

  • Reply Bader ALHaddad September 3, 2017 at 3:56 pm

    hi thomas,
    can you make a video review on the COLLIDEOSCOPE MULTIPLEXING HOT END and Diamond hot end please.
    thanx & regards

  • Reply Bader ALHaddad September 3, 2017 at 3:58 pm

    can prusa multi-material upgrade kit be installed on other 3d printers ?

  • Reply Jim Stamper September 16, 2017 at 3:38 am

    is the beginning an ode to clickspring?

  • Reply Jason Ross September 17, 2017 at 6:10 am

    5:12 I remember the first time I bottomed out my z drive. Really gives a guy confidence! Way to add a little humor to your videos. Good job! learned a lot from listening to you. Keep them coming. (Couldn't resist one last pun)

  • Reply philip dias October 15, 2017 at 6:08 am

    Generally an e3d v6 all metal design (original or clone) is your best bet.

  • Reply benoit-Joseph Millot October 31, 2017 at 8:04 pm

    Beautiful Itopie 🙂
    I have make a frame of Itopie by jigsaw and the result is, Printing very good.
    Y like this printer so much because its very simple to assembly 😉

  • Reply I live in a garage November 9, 2017 at 9:13 pm

    Man i like your vids but for God sake please slow down a little bit when you're talking about temperatures as you're not english native speaker so it is hard to get what you're saying. So what temps when PTFE lined hot end? 260 C? Thanks!

  • Reply Vlad B November 17, 2017 at 8:51 am

    Speaking of clones. Original V6 last time I checked was $70-$100, which is beyond ridiculous for what it is. If they set a fair price they could get much more business, but for me, throwing a $100 for each hotend is a thinkless waste of money. For example "original" heatsink costs around $20, Chinese is $2 and they are absolutely identical. You don't need original for that, at all and overpay so much. the only parts that actually need to be of high quality is nozzles and the heatbreak, but again, they can be purchased elsewhere for a fair price.

  • Reply Xavier Manticof November 19, 2017 at 5:51 pm

    bad choice for what a bad clone example… in most cases clones are cost-effectively better than its original counterpart as for th fitting, well they make it for their own heat sink, in fact most clones are usually as good if not better than their original and since they are not branded are cost effective, not good if u need replacements but great choice if u make sure to buy replacement parts ahead of time and with that in mind the entire notion of clone machines is a myth, cloning is only bad for intellectual property owners not the consumers, there are some exceptions of course I would not buy a clone TV of a Samsung but as far as 3d printers go clones are a great alternative to cheap high efficient machines with out the name tag cost. I am an FDM 3d printing service have used ultimaker 3+ and my original ultimaker 2+ , makerbot replicator and makerbot z18, as well as a few DIY kits from and repraps, and yes I do have a few SLS and DLP brand name printers… but to be honest I have also bought a slew of counterpart clones to these machines and they are either the same quality (just a bit uglier in most cases) but at times many of the clones are actually faster and have greater resolution and a much better upgrade path than their branded name machines. I don't like IP infringement but I don't believe in monopolies either and clones keep it real! especially in the arena of invention and making 3d printers better and better, point is my clone 600x600x1000 print area fdm with a resolutions of 20 microns and up to 300 microns, I used this a lot and after almost 2 years or extreme usage it is still going strong as apposed to almost all my brand name printers that have hade repairs and fixes and upgrades at least twice in the last two years

  • Reply ElMariachi November 29, 2017 at 2:03 am

    This video didn"t go into detail enough, for actually understanding what you are saying, It was very superficial, and most questions remains.

  • Reply polymetric December 23, 2017 at 12:18 am

    This footage of a wildebeest getting killed by lions made me feel sad for the wildebeest. So I used computers to turn the wildebeest into a nazi. Now I'm glad that it's dead.

  • Reply Matthew Guiher January 6, 2018 at 7:49 am

    Hey Thomas so I purchased a all metal 12v E3D v6 clone for my Tevo tarantula to upgraded me stock Hotend. However it is incredibly fact it only reaches 200c when it is supposed to reach around 280c easily. Any ideas?

  • Reply Stabby McStabington January 25, 2018 at 7:28 pm

    ? for Gymnopédie

  • Reply Ilyas Nassyrov February 3, 2018 at 8:20 pm

    Minecraft music?

  • Reply wubbo73 February 12, 2018 at 12:07 pm

    Hi Tom, do you have any experience with the nozzle used in the Geeetech Giantarm D200 print. For some reason i have to print PLA at 230gr to get a good result and abs 250gr but at a slow speed.

  • Reply Asger Vestbjerg March 5, 2018 at 9:25 pm

    Wow, thanks for sharing 🙂

  • Reply Tree Kicker March 12, 2018 at 4:46 am

    I must be lucky then every clone I got has worked perfectly for me.

  • Reply Anon March 29, 2018 at 11:56 pm

    If you don't have too much money to blow, buy a reputable Chinese clone, and buy a genuine all metal heat break.

  • Reply Rod Snyder April 4, 2018 at 1:32 pm

    Awesome Intro ^^

  • Reply PichanPerkele April 13, 2018 at 2:39 pm

    Considering the positive feedback on clone hotends, they can't all be that bad. Sure, there's always a risk you'll get a bad one, but just buy a couple and you'll probably be fine. I'm all for supporting genuine, but I also think that the brand name parts are way too expensive for budget printers. I for one would've probably never started with Arduinos if it wasn't for the cheap knockoffs. Now it's just a matter of time before I send some money their way. Everyone wins. This is why I think you shouldn't dismiss non-genuine parts like you did.

  • Reply macelius April 19, 2018 at 11:49 pm

    Need more intros like this in Your videos tom.

  • Reply Ayano Team April 21, 2018 at 11:45 am

    Can Some one provide design frame for this 3d printer in the beginning for cnc ??

  • Reply reifsnyderb May 13, 2018 at 4:09 am

    No mention of real J-Heads here. 🙁

  • Reply David Green May 26, 2018 at 1:27 pm

    the music sounds as if the printer will die in the end.

  • Reply Alien July 14, 2018 at 12:26 pm

    E3D V6 All the way, you can't beat it and it always gives awesome prints,… plus, we shouldn't be supporting any Chinese company that builds a clone, clearly, it's stolen IP and therefore shouldn't be supported, End of.

  • Reply Daniel Pas August 2, 2018 at 2:23 pm

    mmm deadly nuerotoxin

  • Reply Hideki Shinichi August 26, 2018 at 11:30 pm

    You can go well with fake hotends as long as you use a genuine throat, its really a part where most magic happend…

  • Reply Tommy Wikstrom September 26, 2018 at 11:50 pm

    Was the intromusic from minecraft o.0

  • Reply Nick Heyer October 24, 2018 at 2:19 am

    The intro song was 100% from kingdom Hearts my guy

  • Reply William Daniels November 6, 2018 at 7:22 pm

    The song is gymnopedie no. 1

  • Reply Chris Trigg November 11, 2018 at 10:49 am

    Nice vid, your blue E3D fan shroud is upside down and pressing against the block, mine melted that way also 😉

  • Reply Chris Trigg November 11, 2018 at 11:14 am

    Just like to confirm for your viewers, the aliexpress E3D is flawed, constant jams with PETG, a jam at the 2 hour mark with PLA, every time!. Changing temp and retraction made no diff. Required full disassembly for unjamming – nice.
    I pulled it apart, there is a manufacturing void wider than 2mm above the transition zone that prevents you even pulling out jammed filament, the all-metal height is way above the transition zone causing retraction to stick to the metal (I guess). An M4 to M5 metal pipe, so you can't easily modify the setup. I drilled the heck out of the heatsink (M5) and heat pressed some rounded M4 nuts. Screwed in the usual M4 heat pipe (not sure of its technical name?) with metal the end towards heat block and teflon end inside the heatsink.
    It now works like a dream with PLA and PETG. Doing the PLA at 150 speed, PETG at 100 – still tuning for higher 🙂

  • Reply GordonGEICO November 12, 2018 at 5:36 am

    If this whole "3d printing" thing ever goes belly up you probably have a career as a hypnotherapist.

  • Reply John Ryoce November 15, 2018 at 7:25 am

    Why you used Satie Gymnopedies. i love this piece

  • Reply KiR-3d November 24, 2018 at 4:39 pm

    2:20 – did I've heard it right that PTFE starts to become soft between 50-60C? And starts to release cautious toxins… Sorry, I can't recognize some words.

  • Reply rouk December 1, 2018 at 5:48 pm

    ''other than self confidence'' xD

  • Reply Patrick Cham December 3, 2018 at 6:22 am

    I love the fact that this is a Build Tutorial and you chose a Minecraft BGM.

  • Reply Toms Cietvīrs January 4, 2019 at 7:33 am

    Which is better?


  • Reply Dave D February 23, 2019 at 5:04 am

    Hey Tom, How come you did not include any of the direct drives like the Mk8 etc?
    Great channel, thanks for your awesome work!

  • Reply Lars Skipevåg Vårlid March 3, 2019 at 9:23 am

    Teflon pens, on the stove? Ah… pans… 😐

  • Reply Chloe Mcholoe April 28, 2019 at 11:30 am

    My clone is perfectly functional. All metal ones are garbage unless you polish them but you could just go and buy a 16$ genuine heatbreak with your 5$ ptfe ones. Temps are less accurate too unless you fiddle a but but meh it works for me.

  • Reply invent this May 24, 2019 at 8:17 am

    is a 160watt 11 amp psu good enough for 7 steppers hot end 2 fans and 6 end stops on a rumba plus my steppers are barely moving

  • Reply invent this May 24, 2019 at 8:17 am

    is a 160watt 11 amp psu good enough for 7 steppers hot end 2 fans and 6 end stops on a rumba plus my steppers are barely moving

  • Reply invent this May 24, 2019 at 8:17 am

    is a 160watt 11 amp psu good enough for 7 steppers hot end 2 fans and 6 end stops on a rumba plus my steppers are barely moving

  • Reply Christopher Grove June 7, 2019 at 2:48 pm

    I have a dream of building a DEDICATED polycarbonate printer. (Enclosed, Insulated Hypercube) It would have to have an all-metal hotend. But even the bowden tube and locking mechanisms would have to be heat resistant.

  • Reply Jan Kokes June 10, 2019 at 2:39 pm

    I have a question. How does a smaller diameter nozzle help with resolution if resolution is defined by printer's driver? I mean if nozzle can travel with acuracy of 0.2 mm at best, does making its opening smaller make it travel more acurately? "If you go the opposite way and get maximum precision and detail…"

  • Reply Chloe Mcholoe June 22, 2019 at 7:46 pm

    An e3d v6 clone (proper) probably get a microswiss heatbreak with it. If you’re rich just get a genuine. If you’re insanely rich get a mosquito!

  • Reply Thuan Nguyen July 13, 2019 at 2:02 am

    Hi Tom. With diamond nozzle, which hotend is good for

  • Reply Pratyush Joy July 17, 2019 at 5:35 am

    I am using a cheap 7$ hotend from Aliexpress for over a year now, with no problems. Actually, all the parts of my 3D printer are from Aliexpress.

  • Reply Terry Pullen August 9, 2019 at 3:47 am

    Gaseous neurotoxins, yum!

  • Reply Marshall McFarlin October 24, 2019 at 6:41 pm

    Ha Ha!!!! 5:08.
    Tom said a short hot end will have issues in self confidence. Lol!!!

  • Reply Tony Nameless October 27, 2019 at 5:21 am

    Allow me to introduce another problem.
    China cannot replicate hotends dimensions very well.
    If for example you order silicon sock for E3D V6 from china, it will likely NOT fit.
    If for example you order silicon sock from E3D website, it will not fit Chinese E3D V6 nozzle.

    China manufacturing, I HATE YOU !

  • Reply Benj Bernstein November 10, 2019 at 11:08 pm

    Nice video. I have a Lulzbot Taz3. The hotend just stopped working. Any idea where I can find a replacement for that? It looks like Lulzbot has gone out of business. I'm assuming it's the hot end that is the problem, the bed still heats up, I put a heat gun on the nozzle and the temperature goes up too. Not sure what else to check to confirm the problem.

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