Articles, Blog

How to make your 3D printer smart and silent with the TMC2130!

February 9, 2020


Today, we’re going to be working on Dolly
again, my Prusa i3 MK2 “clone”. And I hear you, I know I should be fixing
the wobbly Z-axis or installing the MK42 heated bed, but first, we’re going to turn it from
this: [sound sample A4988] into this: [sound sample TMC2130]. So today, we’re actually going to take one
of the best features from the original Prusa MK3 and port it back to my half-assed MK2. And if you looked at this video’s title
at all, you’ll know what I’m talking about: The Trinamic TMC2130 intelligent stepper motor
drivers. This is a great little upgrade that you can
do on your own 3D printer as well. So get your nerd on and follow along, I’m
going to show you why you even want these, how to wire up the hardware, how to configure
everything and how to make best use out of your 3D printer’s new super powers. Thank you to Trinamic for sponsoring this
video! Not are they the makers of the TMC2130 we’re
going to be using today, but they also have a huge range of motion control products for
almost every application, such as their cDriver family of drivers, which are ideal for simpler
linear motion jobs. You tell it where to go and it literally does
everything else from handling acceleration all the way to step control. So check out their full family of products
in the link below. This is Dolly. It’s my attempt of building an i3 for bottom
dollar, and you can definitely tell by all the corners that have been cut. Or just cut square, because that’s less
work. I love these cheap DIY printers that are based
on the most widely available parts, because they are great platforms for experimenting
and learning about what makes these things tick. Most importantly for what we’re going to
do today, Dolly uses a bog-standard import Ramps 1.4 and an Arduino Mega 2560 clone,
which is pretty much the worst hardware combination you could use, but it is what almost all other
8-bit boards are based on, so this guide is also going to work for all of those printers
that use a vaguely similar 8-bit board. But before we get into the nitty-gritty tech
details, let’s actually go through why we’re even doing this. You might have seen my older videos on the
Trinamic TMC2100 drivers on Watterott’s SilentStepStick. If all you’ve been using is Allegro A4988
or Texas Instruments 8255 drivers, then these will positively blow your mind. Whatever magic Trinamic has put into the control
algorithms of this chip is just so much better than everything else, it makes your 3D printer’s
motors run smoother, cooler, quieter, more reliable, and I find that the Trinamic drivers
actually produce more torque than the beefy Texas Instruments drivers even though they
are rated for a way lower current. And this isn’t stuff that Trinamic wants
me to say, I am just genuinely in love with these things. So that is the TMC2100, but what we’ll use
today and what the Prusa MK3 is using is the TMC2130. It’s the same basic chip and you’re getting
all of the advantages of that, but on top of the TMC2100, the 2130 adds a communication
interface that hooks up to your controller. This allows the stepper driver to report things
like whether it thinks the motor its driving is about to lose a step and it lets the controller
set motor current and many details about how it drives the motor. And this means a few things:
Your printer’s firmware can auto-tune how much current your motors need to run as cool
and quietly as possible without losing steps, so no more fiddling with those tiny potentiometers. It means you don’t need endstops for the
X and Y axes as you can just ram an axis into the end and the driver will sense that resistance
once it touches the end, and that totally works. You can have the drivers reduce their current
when they’re idle, so when an axis isn’t moving, it’s using as little power and making
as little noise as possible. You can even switch between the silent “StealthChop”
drive mode and the more powerful, but noisier “SpreadCycle”, mode on the fly – or – have
your drivers automatically switch to the more powerful SpreadCycle when going faster. Unfortunately, the coolest feature, automatic
rehoming when an axis loses a step during a print, isn’t there yet in the official
Marlin versions, but I’m sure we’ll get that very, very soon with an update, so keep
your eye out for that, but for the time being, the smoother stepper motor control should
already make your printer a good bit more reliable. But there are some other advantages of going
with the TMC2130 over the simpler TMC2100 that aren’t apparent on first sight. You don’t have to set the motor current
with that tiny, fiddly potentiometer anymore, instead you can just enter and tune the exact
value you want instead of relying on half guesswork and half reference voltage to current
conversion formulas that are different for every driver. With the TMC2100 I noted that the silent StealthChop
mode wasn’t reliable enough for day-to-day use, with the TMC2130 and being able to control
it so much more precisely, StealthChop is a whole different story, all the sudden it
worked flawlessly for me out of the box. So enough of that. At this point you probably know you want some
of these, and if you’re looking to upgrade your 3D printer, this is definitely one of
the best things you can do to it. To follow along, you will need the following
things: A 3D printer that can run Marlin, obviously
TMC2130 SilentStepSticks – you can get these directly from Watterott in Germany or from
Filastruder in the US. These are made-in-Germany boards, a full set
of four drivers will run you about 45€ or $55, but the thing is, you don’t have to
swap out all four drivers, if you want to save some cash and still get, like 90% of
the benefits, you can also just swap out the X and Y-axis drivers, which are the ones that
are typically working the hardest. And you’ll also need some breadboard, I
love these mini ones, and some male to f… uhm, plug to socket jumper wires. Don’t assume genders, kids. I’ve linked these in the description below,
this stuff literally costs pennies. For tools, you’ll need a soldering iron
and solder, and some side cutters, that’s it. Okay, let’s get started! First things first, we’re going to solder
up the driver boards: The SilentStepSticks are all laid out with the driver chips on
the bottom side so that you have this nice big surface for heatsinking that has an all-metal
connection to the actual silicone inside the chip instead of having to go through the chip’s
plastic casing, which is basically just a thermal insulator if anything. So keep that in mind, as this driver board
gets plugged into your printer’s mainboard, the components are going to face away from
you. Now, typically, you’d just solder the two
sets of 8-pin headers to the driver and you’d be done, but with the TMC2130, you’ve got
the communication pins that we don’t want plugged into the board, but instead facing
upwards so that we can hook them up with jumper wires. So on the side with the motor output, we’re
going to solder in the full 8 header pins facing down, but on the other side, I’ve
snipped the pin strip into sections of 4 and 2 pins and two single pins. Facing down, you’ve got the direction and
step pins and the enable pin on the other end, and facing up, you’ve got the four
communication pins and the diagnostics 1 pin, which is the one down here. Don’t worry, this one with the Open Hardware
icon isn’t used for anything, so that one is not getting a pin. Cool, done! Rinse and repeat for all of your TMC2130 SilentStepSticks. Next up, we’re going to wire these up. Replace your stock driver board with the SilentStepSticks,
making sure you’ve got the stepper motor outputs on the board facing the motor connector
or the labels on your mainboard. Now we can hook up the communication ports. The SPI bus we’re using here is a master-sla…
subscriber bus – which means you have one device acting as a bus master, and all others
as subscribers. In our case, the master is the AtMega chip
that’s on the Arduino, and all our TMC2130 chips are subscribers. So we have a few pins here: Serial clock,
serial data out and serial data in. Each of these signals gets wired in parallel
from all of your drivers, so grab your jumper wires and your breadboard and hook them all
up. The fourth pin is the chip select pin, which
the master uses to tell each subscriber which one of them it’s talking to at any time,
and each of these is routed to its own pin on your printer’s motherboard, just like
the diagnostics pin, which the drivers use to signal step loss back to the controller. Ok, so let’s do that! Figuring out exactly which pins on your motherboard
to connect to is a bit involved, so I’m not going to go into the full detail here. But on the RAMPs and on many other boards
that have evolved from the RAMPs, the pinout is identical. What we’ll need to use is the AUX-2 and
AUX-3 connector and yes, one of those is already used up if you’re using an LCD, but you
can also configure it so that you can use other pins. I’m going to show you how in another video. Connect the shared bus signals and the individual
chip select and diagnostics pins like this: [graphic]
Ok, that’s the last time you’re going to need to touch the hardware. Again, the potentiometer on these drivers
is not going to be used; from here on out, everything’s going to be software. So how about that? On the firmware side of things, you’ll need
a fairly recent version of Marlin, since the features that we need for controlling the
TMC2130 have only been added relatively recently. I’m using 1.1.6, which, as of December 2017,
which is when this video came out, is the most current version. You can always check for updates at marlinfw.org. Don’t forget, whenever you download a fresh
firmware you’ll need to transfer your existing printer configuration to the new firmware
or completely configure it from scratch. I think the video on how to do that will also
need to be one that I’ll need to reshoot sometime soon for the new Marlin versions. Opening the Marlin.ino file in Arduino, you’ll
find all the settings for the TMC2130 in “Configuration_adv.h”. If we search for 2130, that’s going to take
us right to the part we need, so let’s just walk through what we need to do here. “Enable this for SilentStepStick Trinamic
TMC2130 SPI-configurable stepper drivers.” – that’s a mouthful! So let’s do this. You enable any line in the code by removing
the double-forwardslash at the beginning of the line, or disable the entire line it by
adding it back. Technically, this turns the line into a comment,
which is not part of the actual program code anymore. So, enable “#define HAVE_TMC2130”, because
we do definitely have TMC2130. Next up, quote, “You’ll also need the TMC2130Stepper
Arduino library”, and you can get that, obviously, at the link right there and do
the manual installation and all, but the much easier way is, in the Arduino IDE, to just
go to Sketch ->Include Library ->Manage Libraries, then search for 2130 and hit install
on the most recent version. This is 100% foolproof and it will even remind
you to keep your libraries up to date when new versions come out. Alright, next! We already connected the hardware, so we can
keep moving forward in the firmware configuration. In this next section, you’ll need to enable
each motor that you’re running with a TMC2130. In my case, I’m doing X, Y, Z and the first
and only extruder, but of course you can use a many or as few as you like. If you’re also using a TMC2130 for your
extruder, you’ll need to enable that in this next section, right here. Let’s start from the top: The sense resistor
value is preconfigured for the genuine SilentStepStick from Watterott, so that’s fine, next up,
the “HOLD_MULTIPLIER” allows the stepper driver to reduce its current while it’s
not moving, and typically this a feature to reduce the heat output on the driver and the
motor, but what I really like it for is that it allows you to get rid of any idle whining
that some combinations of supply voltage and some specific motors produce, you can play
around with these values if the defaults don’t work for you, but keep in mind that this applies
to all axes on your printer that use the TMC2130. You can probably go as low as 0.2 without
any issues, on the other hand, if you want to turn off this current reduction feature,
just set this multiplier to “1”. Next up, “INTERPOLATE”, this tells the
driver to create 256 fine microsteps from the coarser steps your controller sends them,
definitely leave this on, there are no real downsides on a 3D printer, and it’s going
to make motion smooth, quiet and really silky. Then you can configure current for every axis
individually. Now, as I’ve noted in my review of the simpler
TMC2100, current on the Trinamic drivers isn’t really comparable to the current settings
on the Allegro or TI drivers, the Trinamic drivers manage to run quite a bit more reliably
at the same “nominal” current in my experience, so you shouldn’t try and get to the same
current that your previous drivers needed to work smoothly. The default is 1A RMS, so 1.4A peak, you can
set them to up to 2A RMS, which gives you about 2.5A peak, and that is a lot of current
for these tiny drivers and definitely a challenge to keep cool. Watterott recommend 1.2A as a safe RMS current
limit with the tiny Pololu-size boards they come on, if you add a bit of cooling you might
be able to push them a bit past that, but usually, 1A or 1.2A are totally fine for a
3D printer, even if it doesn’t sound like a ton of current at first. Ok, MICROSTEPS, we’ll just leave those,
next, “#define STEALTHCHOP”. This is probably one of the most fundamental
choices you have with Trinamic drivers. They basically give you two completely different
drive modes, first, StealthChop, that is going to be incredibly smooth and almost completely
silent. It’s fascinating to for once hear the linear
rails making noise if you don’t have any fans spinning on your printer. However, it also makes your motors a bit weaker
and isn’t great for high-performance use. So for that they have Spreadcycle, which drives
your motors harder, it’s also louder, but ultimately you can also go faster with it,
and this mode is more in line with how other stepper drivers work. Depending on your exact setup – that is supply
voltage, the exact type of stepper motor you use and even things like the wires you use
for the motors – can influence how well StealthChop works. I’d suggest trying it out StealthChop first
and if it doesn’t work for you, you can always fall back to SpreadCycle. Or if you want a compromise between the noise
level and driving motor performance, you can either run Spreadcycle with a relatively low
current or check out this feature down here, which can put the drivers into a hybrid mode,
running in the silent StealthChop for slow speeds and the more powerful SpreadCycle once
it passes a certain speed threshold. By default, it’s enabled, so even if you
chose StealthChop above, it’s still going to dynamically give your motors a bit more
juice when they need it. I personally prefer a more consistent noise
level even over one that might be quieter on average, but keeps changing in volume,
so I’d set the drivers to run in either mode all the time, but if you like the switching
behavior, you can play around with the thresholds and find one that works for you. Before we can upload the firmware, there two
more things we need to enable and those are the automatic current tuning and the sensorless
homing. Again, those two are turned on by removing
the double-forwardslash here and here. For sensorless homing, the default sensitivity
setting should be ok for most printers, but of course you can play with it if it is too
sensitive or not sensitive enough. It’s also a good idea to add these two lines
[home bump] right after the sensitivity settings to keep the printer from bumping into the
axis ends too often. And now we can upload your freshly configured
firmware to your 3D printer! Give it a quick test and check if the movement
is working smoothly. You can adjust the motor current for each
axis by sending, for example M906 Y800 which, in this case, setw the Y axis to 800mA RMS
or have the firmware autotune your drivers by sending M906 S1. When you find your perfect current settings,
don’t forget to copy them into your firmware configuration and reupload the entire thing
to make it permanent. And there you go, your 3D printer with silent
motors and a bunch of new, cool features for its linear motion. Again, I fully expect the MK3’s auto-rehoming
feature to become available in standard Marlin soon, and that’s going to be just one firmware
upgrade away. So I hope this guide was helpful for you – I
know it was as long one, but it should have covered all the important bits. If you did like it, give it a thumbs up, get
subscribed if you want to see more like it and if you love what I’m doing here in general,
you can support the channel on Patreon with just a dollar per month or more if you feel
like it. So thanks for watching and I’ll see you
in the next one!

100 Comments

  • Reply Reptiloid Павелитель всеx Земель и Миров June 17, 2018 at 1:19 am

    Hey there bro . CAN YOU CLARIFY THIS ONE TO ME – TMC DRIVERS DO THE SAME JOB AS TL SMOOTHERS RIGHT ???

  • Reply Kevin Cozens June 22, 2018 at 3:02 pm

    Thanks for the video. This is worth keeping in mind for the future. Unfortunately the control board in my 3D printer has the drivers soldered on to the board.

  • Reply Francesco Parodo June 28, 2018 at 5:23 am

    Hello In my Ramps board I have this problem: Aux 3 Not Available I have installed Graphics LCD what is the best way to Wiring the TMC2130 ?

  • Reply Werner Driehorst June 28, 2018 at 1:46 pm

    Hello Mr. Thomas Sanladerer,
    I have seen her contribution to the TMC2130! I have just rebuilt my MKS Gen L V1.0 with the TMC2100 from Watterott! What else should I pay attention to which settings, such as: energizing the individual axes (X-Y-Z-E0),
    Do you still need to solder bridges to the TMC2100?
    What software settings are needed in the Marlin firmware?
    Especially what you have to pay attention to, so that the board and the TMC2100 will not break ?!

    I would be very grateful to you for your help, as I am still a newcomer to 3D printers!
    My printer is the JGAurora A5.

    Sincerely, Werner Driehorst

  • Reply Anas Moalem July 4, 2018 at 7:22 pm

    Exzellent! 👍

  • Reply Roger le July 5, 2018 at 1:54 pm

    Can someone show me how to subscribe afew more times?

  • Reply Sven Weiss July 6, 2018 at 8:35 am

    Great video, would these drivers work on a cnc shield v4?

  • Reply Ura Nium July 7, 2018 at 7:36 pm

    Subscriber?

  • Reply Faheem Habib July 10, 2018 at 7:32 pm

    At 2.31 what modification was done to that drv8825 with a resistor on it

  • Reply Aiden Laliberte July 11, 2018 at 4:01 pm

    Can I flash a Makerbot clone with marlin?

  • Reply Russell King July 16, 2018 at 1:35 pm

    Hey Tom! Could you give us a hint how to "remap" the pins so we can use the tmc2130 features with a LCD/ Sd card combination which takes up the Aux3 Pins?

  • Reply WisdomVendor1 July 16, 2018 at 8:24 pm

    As an auto and motorcycle mechanic of some 40 years and an electrical engineer, that wiring almost gave me a seizure.

  • Reply Dániel Vásárhelyi July 24, 2018 at 8:04 pm

    i would like this video at least 5x if i could

  • Reply Krohm Koala July 29, 2018 at 9:55 pm

    Hi Tom, just going to do this on my ramps but how do you move the pin please ?
    thanks you

  • Reply Eric Simerman August 5, 2018 at 11:57 am

    What is the difference between V1.0 and V1.1 ? I didn’t know there were 2 version when I ordered mine now I have 5 version 1.0. Will they work the same?

  • Reply Kevin Miedema August 8, 2018 at 6:23 pm

    7:50 nice. that's gotta be the smoothest plug ive seen yet.

  • Reply Isaac Fardig August 10, 2018 at 3:54 am

    Where’s the other video to reroute the the wires? Trying to use a lcd too!

  • Reply Mälsåker Lures August 14, 2018 at 6:49 pm

    where you running 12 or 24volts with this?

  • Reply gymkhanadog August 14, 2018 at 7:40 pm

    Male and female. That's it. Get over it, kids.

  • Reply alaa momen August 16, 2018 at 5:57 pm

    Can I add more of this drivers to support more axis (extruders) up to 9axis!?

  • Reply ca August 20, 2018 at 11:34 pm

    Sla…. Subscriber.. oh dear. Soyboys.

  • Reply Narimas Yed August 22, 2018 at 7:12 pm

    Any idea of comparison between TMC2280 which is a bit cheaper.

  • Reply Michael Parmeley August 29, 2018 at 5:15 am

    My understanding is to get these drivers into SPI mode you have to solder a couple of very small connectors together on the drivers. You didn’t do that. Are there different types of these drivers?

  • Reply eri August 31, 2018 at 8:37 am

    But now I can't make it sing 🙁

  • Reply Forthereg M September 2, 2018 at 4:24 pm

    Is automatic rehoming implemented in marlin yet ?

  • Reply The Fläsh September 5, 2018 at 7:02 am

    Hello, nice video and i made with this everthing. but do i have to use the endstop pins additionally or do i have to decide on which axis i want to use this feature of the 2130 so maybe only on x, y and use them only there?

  • Reply Penurious Sierra September 5, 2018 at 2:52 pm

    I have TMC2130 with 12V supply and they are not just whining but also screaming. What's going on with these?!

  • Reply Silvio Franco September 11, 2018 at 5:07 am

    Tom, thanks for video and all information your share with the community. I am in Brazil and I have a CR 10. Also I am building a 3D Printer from scratch – a cr10 clone. I am installing MKS-Gen 1.4 with TMC 2130 drivers on it. What are some other videos you recommend me to guide me in a full configuration of my build. Thanks a lot.

  • Reply Bloody JMF September 13, 2018 at 11:40 am

    Since so many people own the MK2 or MK2S could you do a video on how to remap and cable to keep the lcd and card reader while using tmc2130s? There is nothing out there on how to do that, or at least I havent found anything.
    Sincerly J. keep up the good work

  • Reply What The Frack! September 16, 2018 at 4:52 am

    Damn, the nerd is not with me on this. It is wayyyyyyy beyond my nerd level!!!

    Give me something to tinker with on a mechanical or electronic level and I will give you it back only fit for the trash heap 😀

    Gonna give this a go, though. <prays for printer>

  • Reply iamVynz September 16, 2018 at 2:50 pm

    Hey Tom, How do I config this to use AUX-1 instead of AUX-3 as it is being used by a display. Great vid! Thank you

  • Reply Michael Wenninger September 22, 2018 at 10:31 am

    Where do you connect your driver for the second z motor on the ramps?

  • Reply Schlachtplan October 2, 2018 at 2:02 am

    can i install these tmc`s ind a anet E12?

  • Reply Carsten Skjerk October 2, 2018 at 8:34 am

    Cut the political correctness, it sucks!

  • Reply ParselMeister October 6, 2018 at 2:20 pm

    TMC2130 or TMC2208? I dont know witch one I should choose

  • Reply Neil Bradley October 8, 2018 at 9:43 pm

    Tom, I'm really proud that you're chosing to set a good example. <3
    I have yet another great reason to love and support your channel!

  • Reply Paul Cumber October 11, 2018 at 5:35 am

    Every cool tom

  • Reply Wajdolf October 15, 2018 at 7:04 pm

    Are you saying your subscribers are slaves?

  • Reply Neil Hodgson October 26, 2018 at 1:59 am

    Hello Thomas I followed your video and installed the TMC2130 on my Tevo Tornado and everything work out without any problems Great Video so I added a filament sensor while I had it apart and its working as well but is there any way of turning off that Buzzer/speaker that go off when Filament runs out I hate noise and if I'm not around and it goes off the wife will have me leave as it won't take much as she said shes a print widow already only my third printer starting six months ago

  • Reply Louis Cypher October 28, 2018 at 9:23 pm

    Great Video, Thomas. You're connecting Z- Diagnosis pin to Z-Min. How to set this up with an inductive probe? Or are you using the Z-Diagnosis pin for autoleveling rather than an inductive probe?

  • Reply Hamza Acar November 2, 2018 at 10:20 pm

    extruders stepper is good but not much and i didint see any movement on the z axis the second comparement video

  • Reply Witsenburg November 10, 2018 at 7:25 am

    Hi, thanks for the great video, I just ordered the drivers. When you place the drivers (7:39), I see no jumpers underneath on the RAMPS. When you program (13:40) I read 16 microsteps in your firmware. Doesn’t no jumpers mean no microstepping? And with the 256 stepping of the 2130, do we need 16th microstepping on the RAMPS? Thanks!

  • Reply Kobedie November 18, 2018 at 11:49 am

    that soldering iron looks beautifull

  • Reply Benjamin Davoult November 20, 2018 at 10:46 am

    Why do you say that Ramps 1.4 and Arduino Mega is the worst hardware combinaison?
    I mean, my fully custom 350$ 3D printer works perfectly well with this hardware, nothing to complain about and the prints are near flawless. But Should I upgrade the electronics with something better? What advice can you give me on this?
    Very informative video as always, thanks.

  • Reply rpm 9000 November 25, 2018 at 9:22 pm

    Is anyone else having issues with the E0 when trying to use the tmc2130's ? It will not do anything. The x, y, and z all work but the E0 does not.

  • Reply Chad Williams November 30, 2018 at 9:14 pm

    Hi Thomas! I was wondering if you ever made that "other video" about changing the pin assignments. I didn't see it in your video listing. I am trying to install TMC2130's on my MKS Gen 1.4 board and the pin assignments listed as being on the Aux block for the RAMPS are on the LCD block on the MKS. I have completely open Aux 1, 2 and 3 blocks but the pins are different. Trying to figure out where to put everything without sacrificing the LCD.

  • Reply Paul Cumber December 25, 2018 at 10:38 pm

    Every cool

  • Reply BlueMacGyver December 26, 2018 at 1:44 pm

    Do not assume genders hes says? I hope that was a joke, because if not I am really going to loose respect for you Tom. Don't bend your will to the politically correct social justice warriors, we can still maintain our traditional speech and customs in the small world of electronics and 3d printers. Geez.

  • Reply Peter Pan December 31, 2018 at 8:15 am

    Did you catch sjw rabies? Damn.

  • Reply Matthew Barlow January 3, 2019 at 6:11 pm

    Is there going to be an updated video for the TMC2208 out are those set up the exact same as the TMC2130?

  • Reply Engineering Nonsense January 6, 2019 at 4:22 am

    9:07 What is CSE1?

  • Reply whitecrane18 January 10, 2019 at 5:35 am

    You said it's not the best combination of Arduino and ramps 1.4. what do you mean exactly ? And what would be an alternative ? Maybe it would be also possible to buy the original prusa mainboard with their firmware … 🙂

  • Reply Freeman January 10, 2019 at 12:52 pm

    Pls Thomas, show us how to use the LCD aswell!

  • Reply Mateusz Mat January 14, 2019 at 2:15 pm

    Apart from affecting the noise and making the printer smart, how do the TMCs affect the quality of the prints? I'm looking to upgrade the standard ender 3 board to an MKS with TMCs in it but I was wondering if the quality of the prints would also improve.

  • Reply Bogi Davidsen January 19, 2019 at 11:56 am

    is TMC2130 stepper driver only for Merlin Firmware ?

  • Reply charl13is January 21, 2019 at 12:42 pm

    Great video and makes complete sense to me. I’m in the process of switching to TMC2130s. Mine have solder mask where the heat sink should go. Do I just scratch it off?

  • Reply FEARCITYFPV January 23, 2019 at 12:19 am

    Is it possible to touch on this again, using 1.1.9? I'm trying to upgrade my printer with MKS genv 1.4 and 2130 drivers…and am failing MISERABLY, because this tutorial doesn't mesh well with 1.1.9
    .

  • Reply Nickolas Twombly January 23, 2019 at 6:31 pm

    Since this printer had a ramps 1.4 and 2560, I'm assuming it is running a 12V psu? I read that these run much netter on 24V, and make a high pitched noise on 12V. Is that true?

  • Reply Max Zou January 31, 2019 at 2:54 pm

    I heard the 2130 is hot af, and the 2208 is slightly better.

  • Reply Erisa Firehawk February 3, 2019 at 1:59 am

    I was looking at swapping mine out for these on my MKS Gen L board. On my printer, i have dual Z motors that are driven by the same driver. Is there anything special that needs to be done for that situation?

  • Reply recep ışık February 3, 2019 at 2:05 pm

    merhba ,
    videolarınız harika gerçekten çok başarılı.
    Türkiye den takip ediyorum sizleri.
    Motor sürücüleri alabileceğimiz alternatif bir adres var mı?

  • Reply Michael February 11, 2019 at 6:07 pm

    I'm curious if you set the options in software does the board maintain that setting after power off/on? I'm not using a 3D printer. Instead using it on a CNC machine. I'd have to use and Arduino to set the options up. But if I can set them once and they hold the setting that would work.

  • Reply P Mido February 17, 2019 at 4:29 pm

    Hello Thomas 🙂 Nice Video
    i Have TMC2130 SPI i Can Adjust Voltage so i can Using 2 Motor Z Axie on One Driver ?

  • Reply Old Curmudgeon February 18, 2019 at 6:10 pm

    Sadly, the 2130s I got are chip-side up. I doublechecked against the silkscreen on the MKS Gen L & the drivers.

  • Reply Kaleb Kohlhase February 18, 2019 at 8:29 pm

    Where does Aux-2 CSE1 go to?

  • Reply Floris Hubregtse February 19, 2019 at 2:41 pm

    What would you recommend, the TMC 2130 or the TMC 2208? 2208 is a little bit cheaper and features stealthchop 2.0, is this worth it?

  • Reply gnargnarhead February 24, 2019 at 4:25 pm

    did he just call us slaves? ;P

  • Reply johny blaze February 26, 2019 at 2:03 am

    Will this help the ender 3?

  • Reply John Wick February 26, 2019 at 9:11 pm

    What drivers do you think are best for 32bit board? I heard ST820' are the way, but I want to make sure.

  • Reply Carlos Ruiz March 19, 2019 at 1:13 pm

    How do you manage the sensorless homing for the second Z stepper motor? Dp you dedicate individual drivers for each Z stepper?

  • Reply GenTech Mike April 6, 2019 at 6:33 pm

    Does anyone have any insight on adding this to the anet A8s original motherboard

  • Reply ianmcmill April 9, 2019 at 3:40 pm

    That gender stuff made unsub. Anyways good video :p

  • Reply thumbwarriordx April 11, 2019 at 3:41 am

    Hi, this is Lance and we're talking about stealthchop

  • Reply EL Valenin April 19, 2019 at 6:24 pm

    Will this work with the original prusa i3 MK2S???

  • Reply kiyosen L. April 25, 2019 at 12:47 am

    Did you really sencor a protocol dude -_-

  • Reply Mercenary 05 May 3, 2019 at 5:58 pm

    i want to replace the original melzi creality v1.1.3 ender 3 board that has the input voltage 24v and the mk10 hot end with mainboard mks gen l v1.0 plus tft 2.8 touch screen and titan aero 1.75mm 24v, is this possible ?

    -on my creality mainboard at ''fans, hot bed, nozzle '' write 12v, but i measure that and i was expected to be 24 but it was 12 v both -so my nozzle theoretical is 24, but it has 12 volts on the mainboard, that is a problem? if i will buy the titan aero hot end what voltage do i have to buy it ? -the melzi mainboard from creality has a ''atmega1284p microproccesor'',but the mks gen l has ''32-bit STM32 microprocessor'' -is that a problem if mks gen l has a 32-bits microprocessor? i mean if it has bore bits that the atmega. Can it burn ? -is the melzi mainboard has theoretica 3* 12 v blocks but in reality 3* 24 volts what voltage need the mks gen l board to have ? if it has 12 volts the al that 3 components to wich need 24 v is going to be any problem ? -that 3 component ''fans, hot end, hot bed '' are in reality 24 volts, the matter if on that mainboard is 12 or 24 volts ?

  • Reply DukeOfMarshall May 3, 2019 at 7:26 pm

    Don't assume genders? I really hope that was sarcasm. Men are men. Women are women. Male is male. And female is female. Basic biology. Pure and simple.

  • Reply EL Valenin May 12, 2019 at 8:21 am

    Can I do this to my stock mk2s? It's the main reason I'm thinking about buying a mk3s upgrade..

  • Reply haxxx0rz May 12, 2019 at 3:54 pm

    5:51 It's just 'male to female'. Is it wrong to be male or female? Nice video btw!

  • Reply Chris Long May 12, 2019 at 6:32 pm

    Sorry for asking a question about such an old video but here goes – Given the ability of an appropriately setup TMC2130 based arrangement to detect when one of the motors "hits and endstop" does this mean by using a TMC2130 on the Z axis it would be possible to do bed levelling using the motor drivers? Thanks in advance.

  • Reply MSTWNTD June 20, 2019 at 1:44 pm

    My stepper drivers are soldered to the board. Does this render this upgrade impossible?

  • Reply Anyone700 June 25, 2019 at 2:33 pm

    M122 gives me a bad SPI response. I have no LCD screen and wired things normally with AUX 2 + 3. Any ideas?

  • Reply Josh Phillips July 21, 2019 at 2:48 am

    I will probably do this to my i3 clone after i get a MK3S

  • Reply Handsome von Derpinson August 10, 2019 at 3:01 pm

    What could be the Issue when my Extruder Motor gets unbelievably hot after updating to TMC2130? I used the same current setting as the ones in the Video. Only difference being that my machine was a cheap knock off Prusa. Maybe the Cheap Chinese Nema17 Motors tend to be hotter? Should I update them?

  • Reply Pigumon August 22, 2019 at 8:05 am

    I hope it was a really bad and badly executed joke, but those are male and female ends. Imagined human gender has nothing to do with electronics. Also, ALWAYS ASSUME GENDER. Less than one percent of the human population has NO RIGHT to tell the rest of us what male or female is. And NO ONE has the right to tell us what to think.

  • Reply Anthony Polsinelli September 9, 2019 at 12:10 am

    I know this is old, however Id love to see a "best bang for the buck" Prusa Build. I think building it out of import 2020 or 4020 extrusions(bear upgrade?), using a due and smart ramps(or other 32 bit board..), TMC 2130, Some form of auto bed leveling, filament runout and jam sensor(seems there are some of these online like the JamSentry), the MK3 build surface. Im sure there are plenty of other ideas that can be thrown in, but id love to see your idea of the best bang for the buck Prusa

  • Reply Andrew Cowell September 24, 2019 at 3:19 pm

    Did he say do not asume genders ???
    Jup !!
    Ciao never watching this crap again.

  • Reply ProtViewer October 11, 2019 at 4:23 pm

    immer noch sehr laut!! was ist mit DRV8825?

  • Reply James Keaton November 1, 2019 at 7:54 pm

    Really cool video, until I heard him say, "Don't assume gender kids!". The male female connections have been around since there were electrical connections. I understand wanting to be politically correct, but this is too much.

  • Reply BCommando85 November 8, 2019 at 12:00 am

    The most P.C 3d printer vid i have ever seen…

  • Reply lez briddon November 9, 2019 at 8:21 pm

    why does the backing music remind me of a track of Blairs from mighty car mods ? anyone know the name of this track

  • Reply Ivan Stokic November 15, 2019 at 8:05 pm

    Danke fur die info!

  • Reply redhytech December 3, 2019 at 11:19 pm

    the stepper drivers run about $12(USA) each, plus shipping.

  • Reply Toms Cietvīrs December 8, 2019 at 1:34 am

    Hello
    can the TMC v1.2 driver run the stepper motor using arduino uno?

  • Reply Rodney Bosco December 24, 2019 at 1:47 pm

    Tom – You and Joel have quickly become my go-to gurus for all things 3D printer. Your videos are great for learning, even if my feeble Boomer brain occasionally has trouble keeping up. In following this video I heard you mention that with the TMC 2100 drivers you no longer have to manually calibrate them. My son is running a maker build i3 clone with an MKS Gen L board and A4288 drivers but I just purchased TMC 2208 stepper drivers, which I assume are an upgrade of the 2100s. I’d prefer to use software to handle the calibration if it will be more reliable so any advice you can give on how to do that would be greatly appreciated. Keep up the fantastic work and thanks in advance.

  • Reply joro lima December 30, 2019 at 12:34 am

    This man trying really hard to not be cancelled.

  • Reply lukie80de January 1, 2020 at 11:17 pm

    I can verify that the TMC2100 lose steps in 'Stealth Chop'. This might be circumvented by proper configuration via SPI. Nevertheless 'Spread Cycle' is still quieter than other drivers.

  • Reply DarkShadowsX5 January 22, 2020 at 3:32 pm

    the prusa has such a bad design flaw. no matter where you touch it you deflect the nozzle.
    you can tell how much it wobbles when he hits it at 1:51..

  • Reply MoonJumpMania February 2, 2020 at 9:10 pm

    So it's been around two years since this video came out. Have there been any improved boards that came out since then?

  • Reply wormwood777 February 8, 2020 at 3:55 pm

    These are male to female jumpers.

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