Articles, Blog

Loom Knit |Decreased Crown Boyfriend Hat (Counter Clockwise)

November 9, 2019


– [Kristen] Don’t you
just love the look of this mock crochet. It’s also called the
diamond lace stitch or the figure eight stitch. It’s so pretty but
it’s really hard to make a shaped top
or decreased crown that’s nearly invisible. Well I have with this hat
called the boyfriend hat, and you can make one
on your hat as well and maintain this beautiful
pattern and decrease it as you go all the way
up to the very top. So today we’ll be making
this decreased portion. You can also use this for
making a top-down bag as well. So today, we’re going to
work on shaping the top or decreased crown,
here on GoodKnit Kisses. (upbeat music) Welcome to GoodKnit Kisses. We’re all about helping
you stitch your love and love your stitches. This video is the last in a
series for the boyfriend hat and learning how to make it. You can get the pattern
down below at our blog and you can get a PDF
version without ads as well if you’d like that. And we also have the videos that are available
in the series. We’ve got casting on,
clockwise and counterclockwise as well as the main
stitch pattern. And then we have it measuring
to see how to measure on this particular loom ’cause
it’s a little bit harder. As well as changing the
color on this stitch pattern. So now we’re just going to be
working on shaping at the top. Of course we also have this
on the AllnOne loom as well. So be sure and check
that, there’s playlists for both of those as well. First things first, I
do wanna say I did not do this in my other videos, and I have taken my
yarn and instead of pulling it from the
outside on the side, I have actual put it
down through the middle and so my ball of
yarn is coming out from underneath this hat
and it’s been really nice for every time I turn it. So I can just pull my yarn
through the middle here and I’m not having to struggle
with getting the yarn caught on the X shape of the pegs. So that’s great. Okay you’re going to need
seven stitch markers. You can use it eight but I’ve
already got the first one that’s clearly marked so
we’re not gonna need that and of course you’re
gonna need your loom tool. We’re gonna mark every seventh
peg on this particular size. If you’re working the
women size over here, then you’ll need to
mark every sixth peg. So on the X loom
it’s really great and the directions have a
little bit more information about moving stitch markers
but you actually don’t have to move any stitch
markers around just stitches on the X loom. On the other loom, you
will actually have to move stitch markers around
during making it. So this is actually easier. So the way that we’re
gonna count it is we count, one two three four
five six seven. So we started with
the starter one. Comes all the way down to here and you’ll notice
that the next time we need a stitch
marker on a one peg is gonna be on the slider. So all four sliders
get a stitch marker. So you can go ahead
and just grab one now and place it on
all of the sliders. All right and then after
that, what you wanna do is turn your loom and
count to seven. And all these middle
pegs are gonna work. Now this is on this 5/8 gauge. If you use the 1/2 or the
3/8, you’ll have to figure out those numbers for yourself. You do divide the loom
into eight sections. And that’s what were doing. I’ll talk about
that in a minute. So this one’s when I
start here on the slider, I go one, two, three,
four, five, six, seven, and so this middle peg here
is going to be lifted off, and we’ll put a stitch
marker on there, and then push this down. Okay so that’s ready. All right so you’re gonna
continue putting these on, and while you’re doing that
I’m just gonna give you a little of a note about
how this is divided up. So you can see that
the X has four nodes, there’s these legs
on either side. So all I’m doing is I’m
taking the middle point to the middle point of a
node, and breaking it up into one section, and
then the rest of it is a second section so
we’re actually making two, four, six, eight, I’m
dividing it easily into eight. All right so continue
placing your stitch markers and I’ll see you in a moment. All right so we’ve already
got the part of the pattern where it says to divide
it into eight sections, we’ve placed our stitch
markers and now we want to move on to round one,
I’ve got my yarn coming from the very last peg,
and the very last round, and I know that I’m
at the right length. So I’ve already
worked around peg one, and then the last peg,
in order for the yarn to be coming from the last peg, and that’s due to the
stitch pattern of course. Now we’re gonna come
around and do one more set, so we’re gonna come
around on peg number two, and go around peg number
one, knitting over. And then we’re going to stop
and do some moving around so we’re going to
pick up peg two, and then we’re gonna hold
it and pick up peg three, and place it on peg two. Just like that, and then
now put peg two down. Now we’re gonna move our
remaining stitches inward including peg one
for the next section. So we’re gonna pick
up what’s on peg four, and it will become peg
three, and pick up five, put it on four, six to five, seven to peg six, okay. And now I want to
move my slider, so we’re just gonna
loosen up this wing nut and slide it on
in, and tighten it, and right now don’t worry
about this peg sticking out so much that’s peg two
on the next section, and we’ll deal with that then. Now we’re gonna continue
working the diamond lace stitch, or DLS on the remaining
pegs in this section, and then when we get to peg
two here we’re just going to work both of them
over at the same time. So wrap around peg three,
and then wrap around peg two. And knit both of them
over, and then we move on, we just continue by working
that same stitch pattern. Go ahead and work peg
one and the last peg to continue this section. And now we’re just
going to repeat what we just did here, so the next
section we’re going to work peg one and two in the
diamond lace stitch, so we’re just gonna
wrap around peg two, and wrap peg one, and knit over. Okay, and we’re not gonna
worry about this part because it’s going to
shrink up in just a moment. So now on peg two, we can put
it right on top of peg three, because we never had to
actually move this one around. So normally we were
picking up a two peg, and then moving the
three on top of the two, but because this is so
far out we actually don’t need it at all. So we’re just gonna
place it right back down, and now you can
actually take this slack and just pull it and
you can see that now it is a tighter stitch, and
you’re ready to continue on just as we did before. So I’m just gonna turn this, and now we’re just gonna work
the next peg which is three, and then two, working
two stitches over one, in the diamond lace
stitch pattern. All right, so I’m just
gonna continue this on, I’m gonna repeat
it one more time, and then I’m gonna
have you work on yours. So just continue this pattern. The nice part is, now you don’t
have to move these stitches every other section. We’re on the next section,
remember to continue going, you’re gonna work peg two,
one time before you do all the moving around. So we’re passing peg one,
once peg one has been worked both times, you have
to work it once to get the working yarn
to the last peg, and then you have to work
it a second time to get it behind peg one. So when the yarn is
behind peg one that’s when you start moving things. You pick up two,
move three onto two, place two back down, and
then you want to pick up the next stitches, and
move them all down. And if you need too you
can move this one down before you start moving
those, just in case it’s a little too tight. So we’re just gonna
move this on, all right, and then you just continue
on with that pattern, and shrink this one in. All right, pause your
video, I’ll meet you here just to show you that second
section one more time. So we’re at the last
peg on the next section, and we’re just gonna go ahead
and go around one and two. And it’s really big back
here, and that’s okay. And then now you’re
just gonna pick up two, put it on three, and
pull up the slack. There we go, and then
just continue moving on. Knitting two over one. All right so go ahead and
finish this round of decreases, just as you did, pause
your video I’ll come back and give you the next
step, see you soon. Okay so you finished
one decrease round, and now you’re just
going to work round two which is working the
same diamond lace stitch all the way around,
no decreases. We’re just maintaining the
height of this stitch here, so we don’t wanna keep
doing decreased rounds right on top of each other. So just continue
all the way around, pause your video
and meet me back up for the remaining instructions. See you soon. All right so you’ve
finished round two, and now we need to
repeat round one again. Now in the pattern I
show you what your stitch decreases are so you can
observe those as you go, but it’s the exact same
thing that you did earlier. I’m just gonna repeat just
this one first section, just to remind you what to do. And you’re gonna come around
and work pegs one and two just as usual, and then that’s
when you start moving things, you pick up two and
move three onto two. And then replace
two back on two, move all your pegs in,
so all these stitches to the end of this little node,
and then stop moving them. And then move your
slider, and then continue working these stitches
all the way down, and then move the next section. So that’s it, continue
repeating that on both sides of the hat until you
have 16 stitches left, your slider will
be way down here, and you need to make sure
and make the very last part really tight because
it’s gonna be very close to this opening here. All right, pause your video
and I will see you then. Okay so I’m coming to the
end of where I’m doing another decreasing round
down to 16 stitches. You can see how tight it
is on all these other ones. There’s no other
literally place to go, we’ll flip that over, and
see how close these are on the back so we can’t
go any further in, or they will come off. So I’m just gonna show
you how I’m doing it, just in case you
may have lost track. It’s a little different
looking back here, so I had already
moved this peg over, and just gonna finish this
node, work on my last decrease on this part, pick up, whoops, knit two and one, and then I’m gonna pick
up two, move three, onto two, put two back down, go ahead and move
in this wedge here. Don’t push too far or it’ll
fall over the edge there. And then go ahead and
work pegs one and two, they’re now next to each other. Okay, and then you’re
just gonna work these last two pegs here, moving
the stitch over, two on top of three, and
then you’re just gonna work these last two pegs here, that’s really the last peg
and then the number one peg on the very beginning. Okay, right so we’re down
to our last 16 stitches, and on my women’s hat
I knit one more round and then pull all
the stitches through to finish it off, but
you could take that off. It was a little
pointy for a while but once I blocked
it, it was fine. I’m gonna go ahead and
take this one off here, and I don’t think I’m gonna
need any extra length. Now if you wanted to make
this into, say an elf hat you could totally do that here. You would just continue
to work that stitch, the same stitch pattern
and then you can even knit over some of
these and make it down to say eight stitches
if you wanted too, and make it even smaller,
or transfer it onto another loom that
was even smaller, like a small round loom, whatever you wanna
do is up to you, but for this pattern
I’m gonna go ahead and cut a long tail just
going all the way around. And now we’re just gonna
take all of our stitches off. We’ll just weave this last
part in with this tail here. So we’ll just go up
through these stitches, and pull them off
as we go around. And just take them off
one by one in the round. Pause your video and
I’ll see you in a moment. Okay so I pulled it
through, all my stitches, and just gonna go ahead
and pull it on tight, and you can see how
it just cinches up, it’s just like
this one over here. It’s just that this
one had an extra round. Now it is a bit oddly shaped since this loom has
kind of an odd shape, it will block out. This one it looks very
curved, and nice and normal, and that’s just because I
just kinda played with it, and then I left it on a
styrofoam head for a while. So you can go ahead
and block these, I’ve got some instructions
down below linking too how to block but for
a hat once you use you normal blocking
for washing it and squeezing it out
into a nice dry towel. You can just kind of
put your hand in here, and kind of flip it
around a few times, let it lay flat and
then come round, every time you pass
it in the house, maybe every 30 minutes
or an hour you can just kinda do that again, kind
of like you’re stirring the pot here like that. And then let it lay flat, it
just gets a little bit of air, it kind of pulls out
the stitches for you. You don’t need to
pin it or anything, and then this will block out. So as far as tying in the ends, or weaving in the ends
you can just kinda pull your strand right on through,
pull it to the inside, and then you can tie
a knot and leave it where you can weave it
around your stitches here. I suggest if you’re
gonna weave it around, you’re gonna need to follow
the stitch pattern like this, and then find another
spot to weave it around, that follows the stitch pattern. You don’t want to go where
you’re adding an extra stitch that crosses in
one of these holes. You just go around a few inches, and then cut off your tail. You’re gonna do the
same thing here. Now when you get to
this accent band here, I just kind of pull
my stitches like that until I find that I
think that they look good on the other side,
you kind of hold it. And see that it kind of draws
in that little jog there, and it works really well. So kind of find what
works best for you, and then this one you
just kind of pull ’em in the opposite, and then
you’re just gonna weave this tail in grabbing
a stitch here, and then kind of pulling
it in that direction and weaving in those
tails like that. Just kind of follow
where the yarn would typically take you but
put the matching color on top of matching
color, and that is it. So I hope that you have
enjoyed this tutorial for the boyfriend hat
and the decreased crown, let me know if you use
this decrease crown method on any other hats down below. Thank you for joining me. Thanks for joining us
today, where we help you stitch your love, and
love your stitches. See you again soon.

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