Articles, Blog

One Thing I’ve Never Done On A Dirt Bike Before!

October 10, 2019


hey everyone I am gonna try something I
have never done before today one thing I’ve always wanted to do is take a cast
piece of aluminum and bring it to a smooth brush like finish and I’ve got
the perfect opportunity to do that today I don’t know if this is the best idea to
try it on a shock body or not but what do I have to lose I’m gonna go for it
I went and picked up a few supplies earlier to try out on the shock body got
a couple of poly carbody wheels a knotted wire wheel and a brass wire
wheel as well as a scotch-brite pad of course to finish it off as you can see
there’s a textured kind of rough finish on the shock body from casting so the
goal is to remove all those casting marks and bring the shock body to a
smooth brush finish kind of similar to how an aluminum frame would look let’s
take a look down here so I kind of want it looking just like that and if
everything goes to plan I’m gonna do the same with the fork lugs as well let’s
bring them to a smooth super-sick finish the first wheel I’m going to try out is
this poly carbide wheel now it’s meant for this type of grinder right here but
I’m gonna give it a shot on the bench grinder looks like the wheel is ripping right
through those casting marks just want to make sure I’m not taking off too much
material here though and also I want it to be a nice even finish don’t want any
dips or valleys in it but that is gonna be tough with a round shock body just
for the heck of it I’m gonna try that braided wire wheel now that will definitely cuts through the
casting marks but it is a little too aggressive for aluminum now I’m gonna
give this brass wire wheel a shot I’m kind of thinking it’s not gonna be
aggressive enough yeah it is not really touching those cast knee marks this
would be more for a finishing grade I’ve got one more wheel to try here all right
what this is is a rubber drum that expands when you spin it and it holds
this piece of sandpaper into place I think this sanding drum could work
pretty well I just don’t have the correct grit sandpaper for it seem to do
a pretty good job at smoothing the out those casting marks out just to get an
idea how this will look I’m gonna throw on the scotch brite wheel and give it a
little buff this is the type of finish I’m going for
right here I’m thinking the poly carbody wheel is my best option right now I’m just gonna do the bottom part for
now and see how I like it before I move on to the rest of it and obviously you
don’t want to hit the threads at all that will destroy them that’s about all
I can do on the bench grinder with that wheel I’m gonna move on to the drill
with the other poly carbide wheel and for this little casting line I’m gonna
knock that down with a file I’ve got all the casting marks ground down I’m gonna
bring it over to the scotch-brite wheel now and see what kind of finish I can
put on it so that is pretty dang close to the finish I had in mind when I
started I’m thinking I’m gonna need something kind of in between of the
scotch brite wheel and the carbide wheel I was using earlier but as far as the
final finish like the luster and the shine of it I am really happy about that
definitely wasn’t going for a polished look just kind of want that brushed
aluminum feel to it now we’re gonna put the carbide wheel back on the grinder
and buff out the rest of the shock body this is gonna be fun so I’ve been using this mini grinder
with a small sandpaper roll on the end of it it’s been working really well so
I’ve decided to kick it up a notch and get an actual die grinder with a
cartridge roll on the end of it let’s see how this thing rips as you can see it is working amazing my
biggest concern is just trying to get it smooth and a nice even finish on it so
the issue with this die grinder is it’s not variable speed so it’s spinning way
too fast there really have control of it alright guys after trying pretty much
every combination of tool and sandpaper that I could think of here is what I
came up with a little grinder with a cartridge roll on the end of it gives me
a lot of control over the grinding and just nice and super simple to use I mean
I had tried using a drill the bigger a grinder and an air tool as well and none
of them really seemed to work as well as the little grinder the best option
should have been this err die grinder but since my air compressor sucks and it
can’t really keep up that didn’t really work too well at this stage I’ve got all
the casting marks ground off just gonna see if I can smooth out this finish and
get it nice and even and here is what I’m hoping that’s gonna work I picked up
this a little bit more aggressive scotch right wheel I’m gonna put it on the
grinder for kind of an intermediate stage finish and then use just the the
standard scotch brite wheel here for the final finish instead of doing the whole
shock body with disgust right wheel I just did it in this one spot I’m gonna
switch over to the least aggressive wheel and finish it off see if I like it
just in this one section here so that right there is pretty much the exact
finish I was after and I’m really happy about that the more aggressive Scotch
wet wheel is really saving this project man this Scotch right wheel is working a
lot better than I had imagined all these little tooling marks from the cartridge
rolls are coming right out with a scotch-brite wheel and since it’s nice
and flexible it gives it a nice contoured finish you know isn’t all
blocky and sharp-edged like the carts and rolls left it as so I’m just gonna
continue buffing away on this thing and I should be done in no time pretty much got the first stage of
scotch party all done but there’s a few areas here mostly in between the
reservoir and the shock body or I can’t really get you with the bigger wheel got
these smaller scotch-brite attachments that I’m gonna use right there it’s finally time to put the finishing
touches on the shark body well guys that is it shock bodies now
completely done very happy with how it came out
so why didn’t I polish this thing all the way out well a polish finish I’m
talking like a mirror shine is really tough to keep up on but I finished like
this however it can be maintained pretty easily with just the scotch brite pad
plus I think it looks trick all righty guys before I move on to the
forks I’ve got some exciting news to share with you all I have been waiting a
while for this just roll the clip I wasn’t born with any special talent
nothing has come easy to me everything I’ve achieved has come through a
dedication to my passion but it’s not about what you do it’s why you do it and
I know what makes me happy and gives me purpose motorcycles have always been a
staple in my life I dream breathe bleed dirt bikes that is something I’ll never
outgrow it gives me the sense of being in my prime to me being in my prime is
doing the absolute best I can simply out of passion I don’t need to have the best
of everything nicest house coolest bikes fast cars just being able to put forth
my best effort into something I love means the most to me and being able to
share that with the world is the cherry on top I’m Cameron Amon and I am in my
prime so there it is
I am super stoked prime MX is my own company and literally I’ve been testing
hats for like four or five years now and let me turn this thing around really
really happy with how they came out just a nice clean simple look I’ll be
starting with hats for now I’ve also got stickers on the website and that down
the road I’ll be moving into t-shirts sweatshirts beatings that kind of thing
and then also gloves bar pads and grips too that’s kind of my idea right now but
we’ll see where this whole thing goes you guys could go show prime MX in love
I would be forever grateful the website is WWE and XCOM and also put
the link as the first one down in the description thank you alright these poor
clogs are definitely gonna be tricky but I cannot wait to get started on them I’m
thinking I should be able to knock off the majority of the casting marks with
the scotch-brite wheel and then I’ll move on to those cartridge rolls I was able to get a good chunk the lug
knocked out with that scotch brite wheel now it is on to grinding away with the
cartridge rolls so I’ve got the four club ground down
with the roughest sandpaper pretty scratched up and rough looking right now
but I’m gonna move on to the 240 grit now and get this thing looking pretty what I’ve been doing as these cartridge
rolls are wearing down is peeling back a little bit of paper ripping it off and
I’ll have a fresh layer of sandpaper here I’m all done with a 240 grit
sandpaper now I’m going to move on to the fine grit scotch brite and finish
her off I’ve got one four o’clock completely
done and I’ve got to admit I made a ton of mistakes on this one the next one
should turn out a lot better so the biggest downfall with this one is it was
hard to get everything smooth definitely didn’t turn out as I had hoped
there’s a few spots like right here just kind of ended up with a pocket there but
for the most part it ain’t too bad all right on this one I’m gonna focus on
getting everything smooth and consistent no dips valleys or ridges left over and
how I’m gonna do that is I’m gonna start with the cartridge roll I believe this
is 120 grit and then finish her off with the scotch brite cross buff wheel
basically just scotch brite on the end of a shank and by the way I’m using a
drill on everything here just gives me the most control out of any tool I’ve
tried already I’m all done with the fork lugs
in the shock body one last thing before I completely finish up I’m gonna clean
up the shock shaft with the scotch brite wheel overall I am pretty satisfied with how
this stuff turned out although I kind of butchered up the fork lugs a bit but
that is part of the learning process I had a ton of fun trying to figure this
out though well that was quite the experiment but the end result wasn’t too
bad I’m glad I tried it out in the next video I’ve got something really cool
planned for the rear shock so make sure you check back for that one thanks for
watching guys I’ll see you later

34 Comments

  • Reply Cameron Niemela February 26, 2018 at 8:46 pm

    Happy Monday everyone! First 10 orders at www.prymemx.com get free shipping! Use the code "FIVE" at checkout.

  • Reply Kim Jong-un March 1, 2018 at 2:55 pm

    Here some test you may do
    Turn 4 stroke 2 valve engine into a 2 stroke 1 valve engine.
    My idea is a supercharger connect to the crankshaft to create pressure as the rpm is higher
    Reduce the camshaft gear to half so intake open every rotation of crankshaft
    Block openning of exhaust valve
    Create a window on lower of cilinder to exhaust

    could this work?
    I want do that, but I do not have money, engine or tools.
    I apreciate if you make it happen.
    THANK YOU !!

  • Reply Denzel Derksen March 1, 2018 at 6:26 pm

    Hey great vids! Here's a song that would be perfect for a compilation video of this CR250 build.
    https://youtu.be/dPgRLBVmWQY

  • Reply Roost Fezza March 2, 2018 at 1:55 pm

    I was just doing my shock body this week! I had not seen this video, wish i had! I was doing it with sandpaper, by hand, a wire brush, finer sandpaper and polish. It did not work out well at all. So i decided to paint. First attempt, tuesday, not flash, then better after sanding back and re painting. But i like your work so much better! Ill give your methods a go (i dont have a bench grider tho), with the brake calipers.

  • Reply jman71890 March 4, 2018 at 1:04 am

    This is a very time consuming task. Good job man they came out awesome

  • Reply ASG Rides March 4, 2018 at 5:06 am

    Just rebuilt my 93 kx250 rear shock. Dude you made this one look epic! Props

  • Reply MotoLotus March 5, 2018 at 8:38 pm

    Hey Cameron, your videos are awesome!! Maybe you already know this and left it out, but a very important tip for your audience… When you Scotchbrite aluminum, steel (i.e. bolts), or any metals for that matter, you are essentially stripping off the protective coating from the factory, and when left untreated it all CORRODES in no time! Same goes for sand or soda blasting, etc.

    Check out ACF-50.. Here's a video that explains pretty well how it works: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_3SX6_GmlM

    Also, 220 grit sandpaper can still be relatively abrasive, and power tools are almost always going to give you flat spots. Best to finish with #320, and do it by hand so you can get a consistent-looking, grain pattern.

  • Reply Diego AG March 7, 2018 at 4:16 am

    Too much time spent on something completely irrelevant when you broke your swingarm bearings after reassembling them all rusted up… use your time wisely and do the things the right way.

  • Reply kalle Balle March 14, 2018 at 7:23 pm

    You got me to take up my dirt riding agin after 15 years of roadracing! Got me a CRF450!! Way to powerful for me but my local track is a sandtrack so whent for power! God job//Kalle from sweden

  • Reply warcog March 15, 2018 at 9:34 pm

    Hey Cameron, great job on yet another smart and informative video. Gave me some ideas for finishes on our supermoto bike build. FYI: I would guess you know this already, but be sure to wear a respirator when working with aluminum in any manner that creates any kind of airborne dust. Aluminum dust breathed (or absorbed) in the body does nasty things to the electrical activity in the brain, and is very hard to remove, being a light metal, once in the blood, brain, tissue and nervous system. I learned this by health-damaging personal experience doing metalwork with aluminum 20 years ago. You're such an incredible young man and contribute so much to all of us out here, just want you to be safe and sound and around a LONG TIME! Take care.

  • Reply Adam Call March 16, 2018 at 6:20 am

    solid work, my suspension guy does the same thing and anodizes the shock bodies after they are smoothed out, turns out looking like a works shock

  • Reply i Am Tokenn March 21, 2018 at 2:59 am

    I was the 1000th like on this video! Niceee!

  • Reply Adam Cech April 3, 2018 at 12:46 am

    Curious about something because I'm also doing a cr250 build. When you polish and strip the casting to frame/swing arm/ forks do you need to protect them with any spray constantly or will they not be harmed by rust ect.?

  • Reply Keith Walker April 9, 2018 at 1:50 pm

    Just make your own Dremel scotch bright roll! Cut circles layer , use 2 liter bottle plastic as washers there you go!

  • Reply john smith May 25, 2018 at 3:41 pm

    Looks great

  • Reply Matthew Mann May 26, 2018 at 8:17 am

    Good way to be. My brother, good times good stuff, always enjoy your handiwork,and attitude, and honesty. Always a pleasure Sir. Thanks for sharing later my brother.Do your thing your way. I like it, good credo

  • Reply Meme Rider June 15, 2018 at 4:02 pm

    You should Cerakote your frame and subframe lol

  • Reply LukeTheMentalGent June 19, 2018 at 5:43 pm

    The knotted wheels are really weird, I don't know why they're always readily available at hardware stores because I sincerely hate them lol.
    The only thing they're really good at is removing rust or really hard layers you want to get rid off. They leave a nasty as hell finish and on angle grinders only cover a small area so it takes ages to remove paint from a long square section for example. The Polycarbide wheels are the way to go for most of the stuff you'd do cleaning up metals even though they're a bit on the pricier side though imo.

  • Reply kristen dreng June 21, 2018 at 7:23 pm

    What about cerakoting the fork ends too

  • Reply GUNNER12R June 28, 2018 at 9:06 am

    My friend I'm 54 years old and I've pretty much done the same as you all my life. Doing the best I could with what I could figure out. After years of doing that I shifted my career into being a race car chassis builder, CNC machinist, welder, metal fab specialist. Went to work is several very high tech shops with access to all the best equipment. Now as an old man working from my own shop without all the high tech equipment I find it very difficult going back to doing everything with nothing again. Stuff I can easily do but going backwards and doing it the hard way is difficult to force myself to do. If I can help anyone from my mistakes I want to do that. Be careful to not follow my path because it kills the joy of what you do. Watching you takes me back to my pryme again and reminds me why I followed the path I did. Most of what you do isn't the best way of accomplishing the task but its a way and that's what matters. Once you've been exposed to the best way it becomes so hard going back to just doing stuff a way. Its because you know how much you're beating your head against the way. As I watched this video I was thinking a tumbler would knock that out with ease with the correct media. But most people don't own a tumbler large enough to surface parts that size.

  • Reply MrVortex1977 July 9, 2018 at 10:45 am

    best of luck with Pryme MX !

  • Reply Thomas dunn October 14, 2018 at 8:40 pm

    I WAS WONDERING HAVE YOU TRIED TO CEREKOTE THE FORK BODY YET ?

  • Reply Outsider November 7, 2018 at 1:30 pm

    Hope you be the best of yourself always. Keep it up, mentor

  • Reply Spencer S. Young November 23, 2018 at 4:11 pm

    Hey just a quick FYI for next time when you're using a grinding disc for its unintended purpose (benchgrinder) make sure it's rated for the RPM that you are using it for, if its not rated for the rpm it can break apart throwing pieces of grinding disk everywhere… trust me i know, grinding stone for grinder was not rated for the rpm 1st time i went to use it, it broke… lets just say it hurt

  • Reply HOT SHOT 1500 November 29, 2018 at 7:29 pm

    Is there a way to anodized these parts?

  • Reply Jack Johnston January 10, 2019 at 4:26 am

    Great videos,Thank you for sharing.๐Ÿ™๐Ÿ™

  • Reply driftke70 January 18, 2019 at 6:02 am

    you need some time of media tumbler

  • Reply Cadan Harris January 26, 2019 at 5:40 pm

    Hey man, love your videos, awesome inspiration! Do you use any sprays or sealants to maintain the finish on aluminium parts?

  • Reply Tac February 17, 2019 at 6:22 pm

    I did a trx450r swing arm by hand,took for ever but came out dope

  • Reply Ground Hawg 83 February 25, 2019 at 5:56 am

    Love Cameron work best videos on YouTube from start to finish. Happy to see you doing better. Much love and respect bro keep up all the great work.

  • Reply J Fratis April 14, 2019 at 11:48 pm

    Just a suggestion when you use different "grits" on metal slightly change the angle each step. This allows you to better see if you've actually removed all the scratch marks from the previous step.

  • Reply Calvin Nel April 22, 2019 at 7:03 pm

    Cool video. How can you clean the top front shocks on the gold area?

  • Reply Paul O'Connor June 30, 2019 at 1:48 am

    Put your die grinder on a variable speed "rheostat" ๐Ÿ™‚

  • Reply Tootie Harris August 8, 2019 at 6:18 pm

    Hey can I please have a 450 Honda for free?

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