A few weeks ago. I showed you how I built a cuboid cloud LED lamp Which created, let’s just say, mixed feedback from viewers But that is not the point right now Because the lamp is not completely finished yet As you can see when I flip on the lamps power switch It activates the lamps gu10 LED spots as well as the RGB. W led– strips on top The reason for that is that both components are wired up in parallel That kind of sucks though because you can never experience, for example, the mood lighting without having the whole room flooded with lights due to the bottom LEDs The easiest solution would be to use two switches which each individually turn on and off one component group But that is not possible because even though the ceiling offered three wires to work with at the power switch We only got two of them So a simple to switch system is not possible but since we got an RF remote for the RGB W LED strips I will be showing you in this video how it Communicates with its receiver and how we can use it to talk to my controller and thus control all kinds of things including a solid state relay Which could turn on /off d gu10 LED spots and thus solve our initial problem Let’s get started This video is sponsored by JLCPCB where you can get custom PCB’s the easy and economical way So upload your Gerber files and submit your order which includes getting a proper file review before the reproduction process To start off we should have a look inside the RF remotes, but since I didn’t want to destroy it I rather ordered myself another RF LED strip remote with receiver, which also does that job without a problem So I took apart the remotes in order to pull out the main PCB Which is apparently a build around an RM03C IC Only problem was that I found absolutely no information about this IC on the Internet Thankfully though while inspecting the three IC’s of the RF receiver. I noticed this 480R IC which according to its datasheet is an ask/ook RF receiver ASK stands for amplitude shift keying and OOK for on-off keying which are two methods used to send 1 and 0 bits Through an RF signal but right now we do not care that much about this technical principle as Well as the more or less complicated functional diagram of the IC Which in a nutshell picks up the modulated RF signal and turns it into a proper data signal that we can work with for now We only care about the cleaned-up data signal on pin 5 of the IC at which I immediately had a Look at with my oscilloscope as you can see by pushing a button on the RF transmitter Which I obviously had to reassemble beforehand. We get a decent looking data signal at the receivers data outputs and of course by pushing another button we get a slightly different data signal, which is very hard to see on the oscilloscope, but Obvious because the receiver needs a different Identification signal for each button in order to know what it should do By using the continuity function of my multimeter I found out that this data outputs directly connects to microcontroller IC Which will probably read in a data signal and then control the MOSFETs which sit right next to it to adjust the brightness of the LED’s and That is basically how this RF receiver works And yes, it can also receive and demodulate the data signals from the RGBW LED strip RF remotes But I really do not need the microcontroller and MOSFET part of the PCB Thankfully though since I knew that the receiver and transmitter work with a carrier frequency of 433 megahertz I simply searched for another 433 megahertz receiver on eBay and quickly found one After receiving it. I hooked its VCC and ground pin up to 5 volts and its data pin to the oscilloscope and Sure enough after pushing a button on the LED remote. I was greeted with a lovely-looking data signal that we can work with So I connected the data pin to the pin two of an Arduino Nano and started writing codes so that the microcontroller uses its external interrupts to start a timer when the state of the data signal changes while saving the on off times of the received signal but while trying to write this code I realized that a way easier to use Arduino library already exists the RC switch library So after downloading it’s opening up the Receive Demo Advanced sketch Uploading it opening the serial monitor and finally pushing a button on the remotes. I was greeted Not only with the mandatory binary data codes but also with the facts that the signal used the protocol 1 after Doing a bit of digging in the library’s wiki I found out that the protocol is actually an encryption for the sent data with a synchronization part and with the bit 0 Representing one high and three low times and a bit one representing three high and one low time the synchronization parts was easy to spot on the oscilloscope and After decrypting the data signal it was exactly the same 24 bit value as the serial monitor spit out Perfect But of course depending on what kind of IC your RF transmitter and receiver uses this data encryption can be a bit different But the data sheet should always give you more information on that Now my secret codes for turning off/on the gu10 LED spots will be pressing yellow and pink one after the other so I got the decimal codes of those buttons from the serial monitor by using the simple receive demo sketch and Created a simple piece of code around them which reverses the current state of the digital pin 5 of the Arduino Whenever this button combination was pushed after uploading the new codes I hooked up an LED to pin 5 for testing and checked whether everything works how I wanted it to Which it did but of course in order to control mains voltage We would need something like a relay about which you can learn the basics in one of my previous videos Anyway, after building up a small demonstration circuit with this generic relay board, it worked just like I thought it would But honestly speaking I do not put a lot of trust in those relays because I often experienced that after a few weeks of usage Their changeover contacts got locked in one position due to sparking So a relay could easily fail which is why I tore down my demonstration circuit and instead got myself a solid-state relay board this G3MBA-202P SSR Probably consists of a Triac with a sprinkle of complementary components for safety reasons Which means it does not use mechanical components for switching but instead does it electrically? But of course if you want more information about solid state relays Then I would once again recommend checking out one of my previous videos Anyway after hooking up the Arduino as well as the gu10 LED spot Replacements to the SSR it was time for testing which as you can see turned out successful At this point I expected to build a small additional circuit for the solid state relay since I wanted to turn on when the Arduino outputs a low voltage signal but apparently the board the relay came with already featured such a circuit and thus when the Arduino fails The lights will still be turned on So next I soldered out all of the required Components onto an additional piece of perf. board and to one another with solder bridges and bridge wire according to my small finalized schematic as Soon as the circuit was complete I grabbed myself a 5 volt power supply with more than enough output current capabilities and Wired it up to power the circuit After then turning on the power, it seems like everything works and I can turn off on the lights with the RF remotes But later, I realized that the receive range of the circuit was quite horrible So as an afterthought I was pretty much forced to remove its data signal to the Arduino and Replace it with the data outputs of the previous receiver circuit, which I had to hook up to 5 volt power as well This way the range of the transmitter and receiver system was drastically improved So it was finally time to run unscrew and lift up the lamps’ top MDF piece hook up the circuit’s power supply to mains voltage along with the LED power supply and at the solid state relay in series to the gu10 LED spots After closing everything up we cut a rectangle hole into the MDF boards for easier possible troubleshooting later on And got the lamp back in position And as you can see, it still works perfectly fine but now I can turn off the gu10 LED spots whenever I want I Hope you enjoyed this small project and maybe got inspired by it to control something on your own with an existing RF remote As always don’t forget to Like, share, subscribe Stay creative and I will see you next time!