Hi I’m Kirsty Meakin
from Naio nails, in this video I am going to show you how to sculpt nails on short,
bitten, nasty nails. Kirsty: Do you have short, bitten nails?
Do you want to know how to sculpt nails on short, bitten, horrible nails?
Well, this video is for you! What I am going to show you today is — how
to do this. Because you see this nail? It is so short,
so bitten, look at that! Horrible, short bitten nails if i do say so, I am sure, my model
today would agree. She has short, bitten horrible nails. Female speaker: Indeed. Kirsty: Yes, but we are going to make them
beautiful. We are going to make her feel like she can talk with her hands, and she can pay
at the till be like, oh yes, thank you very much. She will hold a glass of wine like this
— she won’t be afraid to have those hands out on show.
We are going to start by pushing the cuticle back. I am pushing the cuticle back to relieve
that cuticle from the nail plate and also reveal a little bit more nail. So we are going
to push it all the way back to her elbow. No we’re not.
Nice and gently, just nice and gently. Then I am going to take a sanding block, and
I am going to whip over to remove the surface shine from that nail. Then I am going to take
a file, and just come down the sides. Just so I know that is all abrazed. Dust that
over. Dusty, dusty, dusty. And then — we are going to wipe over with
a bit of acetone. You don’t have to use acetone, you can use. I will tell you three
different products. You can use, if you are feel like you are dehydrating the hell out
of that nail all the time. You can use acetone, which will dehydrate it quite a bit. But that’s
what I want to be. You can use the non-acetone nail varnish removed. Or is it called nail
polish remover? — Nail polish remover. Or — you can use the gel residue wipe off solution.
That is gel residue wipe off solution. Not soak off solution like I say sometimes. I
just — the brain and the mouth don’t work sometimes together.
So that’s all nice and clean. Now we are going to dehydrate this nail with
nail prep dehydrator. And you are going to let that evaporate.
Then i am going to apply a non-acetone primer. That’s one coat then we are going to do a
second coat. We are doing two coats of primer because — Charlotte, who is our lovely model
today and my lovely cousin. She suffers with a little bit of lifting because of the nail
being short and she likes having long nails. So there is a bit more — sort of — leverage
going on there. So if she gets a little bit of lifting — she will sit there and peck
that till she goes, oh it’s gone. It popped off, it just popped off that. She will be
like that. Won’t ya? Female speaker: Yeah. Kirsty: She’s not that bad anymore because
I have told her off too many times for doing it.
So now we are going to put a sculpting form on. Right up to that contact area here going
to get it between my thumbs — and I am going to check how this fits. Hang on. That fits
nice because — see this bit here? This fleshy bit. That is the hypenicium
we want the product to just fall off the nail, just like a natural nail would do. A natural
nail would sit on top of the hypenicium . You are not going to put this
here. Do you see how that’s right next to the nail. You are going to leave the room
for that hypenicium there. Then, we are going to close the form]. So you know it’s nice and straight, you could start to close the tabs on your
form to secure it. Right underneath here. I am going to close this
down to about — a 2 and a half. Because we are going to do the length to a number 2.
And then, this is what you get with nail biters. Because the nail is further down the nail
bed, they end up getting this bit of chunk here. Is all — its just skin — it’s just
the finger. So the finger here interferes with the form a little bit. So what I am going
to do, I am going to use a tiny pair of scissors and going to come in at the side here. Got
to be careful, we don’t want to be chopping fingers off.
And i am relieving that pressure. So this can sit nice and close to the nail. This part
of the form here, will sit nice. Same on this side.
You can see that the form still fits from corner to corner — so we can do the application.
I think I need to put my hair up because Adam will start shouting at me. Adam: I was going to yeah, because it just
— once yeah. Kirsty: I like that, into the camera.
So what I’m going to do is, I am going to show you how to put your hair up with a nail
art brush. Are you ready? I got it — hold on, let’s try it this way — so twist the
hair like that — oh. Here is another one weee! — You are going to go in, then pull
it round and push it through. Look at that. You like it don’t you? Adam: I like it because it stays out my way
now. Kirsty: So we got that now, I will keep my
hair out of the way of the camera. Ok so now we are going to apply the acrylic.
I am using soft beige. I am going to use max adhesion because I want it really to adhere
to this nail. Because it is so tiny, we need good adhesion.
I am going to start here. At the bead, medium size bead. Even it out, onto the nail, side
to side. So it is making contact with the nail — the natural nail that is. And then
we are going to stretch by patting and pressing down to number 2 on the sculpting form. Into
a nice soft stiletto shape. The next bead, don’t need to bleed this out. I am going to tape it at the cuticle, make it nice and — flush.
We don’t want a rip. We don’t want a thick edge at that cuticle; we want it nice and
flush. Then you are going to bring the rest of the
product over the top of the structure you have already created. And this is going to
give you your apex as well. Then you are going to thin it out towards the tip.
Just check these corners, they are vital these corners, they need to have enough product
on. Because this is where the nail finishes. The
natural nail that is, not the fake one. Check all the views, so you know your structure
is there, you got your apex laid in. Popping the pinching tool on. Right at this
widest point here. Just to give it a little bit more of a ‘C’ curve underneath. Going
to give it strength. Going to make it look more slim.
If you were doing the full set, you would go along obviously, that pinch you would work
on this one, then you would take it off and put it on the next.
That is nearly done, and then we will file it. I am going to take the form off now. Open
the back, peal that off there, then we are going to pull it from this point down.
We are going to use the ‘E’ file — with my favourite bit — description bit below if
you want to find out what bit it is. I am just perfecting the cuticle area — taking
off any bulk I am just buffing over now to smooth that
out. You see I am supporting this nail with my thumb so the pressure doesn’t hurt.
Dust that off. And then I am going to wipe over with pure acetone. Because it will refine
that surface even more. It will smooth it out and get rid of any unwanted debris, like
dust and stuff. There you are. That nail is now ready for
nail art or gel polish, anything like that you would want to put on.
So let’s look at the difference between, this is your bitten nail, and the beautiful
soft stiletto nail. So you too can do this. Don’t be scared of that client that comes
in that has got short nails. Don’t be like, oh we can’t do it. I have had people come
to me that have come to me and said, oh I have been to salon and they said they can’t
do anything with them because they are too short.
You can, look at that. Beautiful. Have a go yourself; I hope you enjoyed this video.
Don’t forget everything we used today is in the description box below, also subscribe
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