Articles, Blog

The BEST 3D printing material? Comparing PLA, PETG & ASA (ABS) – feat. PRUSAMENT by Josef Prusa

February 11, 2020


There are numerous 3D printing materials on
the market but PLA, PETG and ABS or its very similar counterpart ASA are probably still
the most common ones used. I took these 3 materials from the Prusament lineup and compared
them side by side. Let’s find out how they print, look, and perform in mechanical and
thermal tests! Guten Tag everybody, I’m Stefan and welcome to CNC Kitchen.
Even though you can nowadays get almost any thermoplastic as a 3D printing filament PLA,
PETG and ABS are still the most common ones used. PLA is the most printed material due
to being very easy to print without any significant smell but with the downside of being a bit
brittle and thermally not very resistant. ABS is slowly replaced by a very similar material
which is ASA, that performs almost the same, but with the added benefit of being UV resistant,
having less warping tendency and lower odor. PETG has been on the uprise since a couple
of years and is praised for having the ease of printing of PLA but being less brittle
and thermally more resistant. But how do those materials really perform in a side by side
comparison and is there “a” best material. I gotta say at this point that almost every
material from every manufacturer will behave differently because even though it says PLA,
PETG or ASA on the box, there isn’t just one PLA, one PETG or one ASA. Depending on
manufacturer, the raw material, compositions and additives deviate and that will influence
printability as well as performance and this is also why there are $10 PLAs as well as
$50 PLAs on the market. Also the printer, print setting and environment changes properties.
I can’t cover everything but I chose Prusas own material lineup for a reason, because
once, they cover all of those materials, are all really decently priced and due to the
amount of QA they perform shouldn’t scatter that much from batch to batch or even roll
to roll! They even check material color to avoid having different hues when doing a project
where you need more than one roll. Since Prusa also provides their whole own ecosystem with
their Original Prusa Printers, PrusaSlicer and the Prusament it doesn’t require me
to tune in each material on my own because they already did a pretty great job in that
regard. And just to be clear, this material works just as well on any other printer that
uses 1.75mm filament! So what I’ve done is, that I printed quality
parts and real test samples for all 3 types of Prusament and we’ll be taking a look
at them side by side to see how they perform in each of these categories: Price, Printability,
Printing Quality, Static Strength and Layer adhesion, Ductility, Stiffness, Impact Resistance
and Thermal Resistance. What materials are you usually using for your
projects and why? Please let me know down in the comments!
All spools come in a nice cardboard box and are sealed in thick plastic bags that are
resealable for storage and include some desiccant. The spool itself looks unique with the hexagon
cutouts that don’t only reduce material usage for less weight and shipping costs but
also give you plenty of holes to poke the ends of your filament through. It features
manufacturing date and print settings, as well as a QR code that lets you track each
single spool produced and provides QC information. The
only issue I had was with these slots in the center hole that are probably used for indexing
during prodcution, but which caught on a cheap spool holder that I use on top of my printing
enclosure and that resulted in printing artefacts. Definitely use a round one here. Prusa talked
quite a bit about their perfect winding and it does really look nice and should reduce
tangles during printing. A kilo of Prusament PLA sells for €25, PETG
and ASA sell for €30 though the ASA spool only contains 850g. The reason for that is
probably not because they are greedy but ASA has a density 15% lower than the other so
1kg of material just wouldn’t fit on a spool but since all spools still contain around
330m of filament you can still print the same amount. In the end that makes a kilo price
of €25 for PLA, €30 for PETG and €35 for ASA. Taking the density into consideration,
PETG and ASA both end up at 9 cents a meter, whereas PLA is 7.5 cents a meter. In Europe
you can directly buy it from Prusas webstore, in the US it’s available on Amazon including
free Prime shipping. So in the end it’s not super cheap but still a very decent price
especially for the quality and range of colors you’re getting. And especially inexpensive
if you compare it to materials from other 3D printer eco-systems.
All the prints were done on my Original Prusa i3 Mk3s. I printed two print jobs with each
of the materials. One featured quality test parts, the other one contained the samples
for material testing. I used stock settings on a stock printer, and didn’t play around
with any parameters. All prints were done in my office and no enclosure, I only did
one set of layer adhesion samples with ASA in an enclosure, down in my basement, but
since it was wintertime it didn’t get much warmer than 30°C. PLA was printed at 215°C
on the nozzle, PETG at 250°C and ASA at 260°C. Because this might also impact layer adhesion
and print quality later, PLA used a fan of 100%, for PETG it was set to 30-50% and even
ASA was printed with 20% part cooling fan. Parts mostly stuck quite well to the PEI coated
spring steel bed but I sometimes applied a bit of Magigoo for challenging prints, even
though Prusa doesn’t recommend the use of these adhesion products.
Overhangs looked great up to 55° and started to degrade at 65°, only, and remarkably,
ASA printed those still great. Stringing and small details was also very similar with only
the PETG getting a little worse right at the tips. PLA performed best at the bridging test,
PETG a little worse and this was the only time that ASA came last. All 3DBenchies looked
really good. The Army-green PLA and the Jet Black PETG had a shiny finish, the Orange
ASA, which color I actually adore, was matte. The only thing I was able to see, was that
the PETG was a little stringy which is common for that material and the ASA part had a small
step on the height of the floor of the 3D Benchy which is a good indication that it
contracts more during cooling than the others. Due to the usage of cooling, even the chimney
on the ASA part looked great which is often a challenge with that material group. All
in all that means, if you have a good material to start with and tune it properly PLA, PETG
and ASA can all produce gorgeous prints. Next, let’s continue with the interesting
part and this is the mechanical tests. Since this shouldn’t get crazy technical, I compared
the static strength of the materials not with standardized dog bone test samples but printed
a couple of my test hooks where we can analyze the material strength of a lying part and
the layer adhesion with the hooks printed vertically. All parts were printed with the
same wall and infill settings. I mounted the parts one after the other in my DIY universal
test machine and loaded them at a constant speed to remove the human factor. Let’s
start with the horizontal hooks. The PLA part failed quite brutally at 73kg of load. There
was some yielding, but when it went, it was quite suddenly. Next came the ASA part with
57kg of maximum force. It failed rather similarly with also a bit of yielding but then cracked
instantaneously. The PETG part was the weakest with 55kg of failure load. In contrast to
the others, and this is quite an advantage of PETG, it never snapped through and just
stretched and stretched which make parts out of this material more robust.
In order to find out how good the layers bond together I’ve tested the same hook with
similar wall thickness and infill only printed standing. As expected, the vertical parts
failed earlier than the horizontal ones. The average failure load of the PLA hooks was
40kg, which is 55% of the ones printed lying. Quite a knock down but totally in the expected
range. Next came the PETG hooks that failed on average at 25kg of load which is 46% of
the horizontal ones. Again, still in the expected range but you can already see how much stronger
PLA parts can be. Next came the ASA parts that snapped on average at 17kg which is only
29% of the reference load. ASA similar to ABS wants to be printed at best in a heated
chamber without cooling, otherwise layer adhesion can suffer. So there is a trade-off between
nice looking parts and well performing parts. I, at least tried what difference it makes
if the material is printed in an enclosure. Due to the outside temperatures I didn’t
get it to warm up more that to around 30°C, so still not ideal and might be a good idea
for another investigation. Still, those hooks were able to bear 20kg of load which is 20%
more than the parts without the chamber, so definitely think about elevated chamber temperatures
when printing ASA or similar. Oh, and by the way: If you enjoy my investigation
then please don’t forget to leave a like, subscribe to the channel and make sure to
select the bell! Next, let’s take a look at the stiffness
of the materials, because this might sometimes be a factor you’re looking for. Also don’t
mix up strength and stiffness of the material. Strength tells you how much stress a material
can take before failing, stiffness is the resistance against a deformation. The force
plots of our hooks already give us an indication which material is stiffer due to the initial
slope of the curve. A stiff material has a steeper slope because at the same level of
deformation it resists with more reaction force. PLA seems to be the stiffest, ASA is
in the middle and PETG is the least stiff. In order to get a numeric value of the stiffness
I performed a 3-point bending test with all materials where I loaded a fully dense bar
with increasing weights and recorded the deformation. Using the dimensions of the bar, the recorded
deformation and the applied weight I can now calculate the bending modulus of the material.
As expected, PLA is really the stiffest with a bending modulus of 3300MPa, next comes ASA
with 2300MPa and with only 70% of the stiffness of PLA, PETG is the most flexible material
of the 3 with only 1900MPa, really interesting! With the hook test we’ve tested the strength
of the materials when they are slowly loaded, though in some cases it might be interesting
for you how the parts behave at an impact, for example if you crash your quadcoper. In
order to test this, I performed an impact test with notched IZOD specimens. In this
apparatus the coupons are placed in a vice and then struck by a hammer. This impact will
use some of the kinetic energy of the hammer so it won’t be able anymore to swing back
to the same height as it started. This can be measured with the attached scale. PLA absorbed
on average 8% of the hammers energy which results in an impact strength of 5kJ/m².
PETG was only a little better and absorbed on average 14% of the kinetic energy resulting
in an impact strength of 8.6kJ/m². This is interesting and might be counterintuitive
for some, because it behaved so ductile in the static hook test. This just shows the
strain rate dependent behavior of the material, so the different behavior of properties at
different loading speeds. ASA was the toughest material and was able to absorb almost 30%
of the hammers energy resulting in an impact strength of 18kJ/m². This is more than 3
times the value of PLA and more than 2 times the one of PETG.
In the last test I compared the temperature behavior of the 3 Prusament materials. I placed
them in a small jig, loaded them in the center with a nut and placed everything in my convection
oven that was fitted with an additional thermocouple. I tried to rise the temperature as uniformly
as possible to capture the moment when the material starts to soften and when it finally
fails. PLA started to give at first when I reached a temperature of 60°C and just 5°C
later it completely failed. At 80°C I started noticing the PETG part slowly started to give
and then also totally failed 5°C later. ASA was the most resistant and only started to
soften at 110°C and slowly kept sagging until it wasn’t able to handle the weight anymore
at 120°C. So in summary, all of the Prusament filaments
printed really nicely, even ASA without any enclosure. Static strength was the highest
for PLA but it behaved way more brittle than PETG for example. Layer adhesion was around
50% below the reference strength for PLA and PETG only ASA was quite a bit weaker in that
regard, though printing with an enclosure or maybe less fan might help. In terms of
stiffness, PLA again showed the highest values, ASA came second and PETG only had 70% of the
stiffness of the winner. Impact resistance was the lowest for PLA, next came PETG and
ASA was by far the most tough material. Under elevated temperatures, PLA failed at first,
PETG seems to be usable up to almost 80°C and ASA should be able to even bear boiling
temperatures. Keep in mind that this comparison was made with the Prusament lineup. Other
brands might perform differently. In the end, there is no best material. Every
one of them has its pros and cons! PLA is still my go-to material due to the ease of
printing, the high strength and stiffness. If you want to avoid the printing odor and
still a bit more hassle during printing but need the ductility and more toughness, PETG
is a nice alternative to PLA. ASA especially shines at higher temperatures and demanding
applications but at least without a special setup suffers in terms of layer adhesion.
Still, due to the odor I avoid the material if I can. So as an example, what material
of those 3 might now be suitable for a quadcoper frame? In such a case I might still use PLA
due to it’s strength and stiffness. I wouldn’t choose PETG because first it’s density to
strength and stiffness ratio is not great and during an impact it’s not that much
better than PLA. ASA might be a good option there, because it has a lower density and,
in the end, only a slightly lower weight to strength and stiffness ratio than PLA but
is more impact resistant and thermally stable. Still PETG is a good option if weight is not
an issue but you need a bit more toughness and thermal stability. But in the end, you
have to choose and I’d really like to know which materials you prefer for your projects
and why! Leave a comment down below! Thank you for watching! I hope you learnt
something new today. If you did, then please leave a like and make sure that you’re subscribed
for future investigations. If you want to support my videos and research than consider
becoming a Patron or help me out in other ways. Also check the rest of my video library,
because I’m just about to reach 100 videos and there is a ton more for you to watch and
enjoy. I hope to see you in the next one, auf wiedersehen and goodbye!

100 Comments

  • Reply CNC Kitchen February 1, 2020 at 5:33 pm

    Don't forget to share this video on Facebook, Reddit, Twitter and other social media!

  • Reply Ron DLH February 2, 2020 at 12:17 pm

    I mostly used PETG which prints well with a direct extruder, ASA shrinks quite a bit, so you would need heated chamber

  • Reply Daniel Watson February 2, 2020 at 12:44 pm

    Really surprised to see PETG perform the way it did, its become my new go-to at present, though its tear as opposed to shear characteristic is desirable for the project I am working on. As you rightly say Stefan, there is no single ideal filament, only a "best for application".

  • Reply Tedy Lupu February 2, 2020 at 12:54 pm

    What about thermal conductivity? Could you make a heat exchanger to cool water using peltier elements? I'm not an idiot and i know metals have better λ then plastics but would be worth to test?

  • Reply Mads Thorup February 2, 2020 at 1:00 pm

    I use fiberlogy impact PLA and Matteforge at home.

  • Reply Faruk Soares Correia February 2, 2020 at 1:23 pm

    I use ABS most of the times, I live in a hot humid country, PLA gets soft even at 40º (yeah I have 40º-45º days during summer), PETG likes humidity a little bit to much, so ABS everytime.

  • Reply scythelord February 2, 2020 at 1:25 pm

    I print mainly PETG. PLA is hard and all, but I've had numerous PLA items shatter, but I've never managed to break a PETG part without seriously trying to break it. One time I printed one of the hand crank sirens out of an expensive color change PLA. Shortly thereafter, the crank handle connection part of the main drive sprocket broke off. I reprinted the broken part in Prusament PETG with similar model settings. After placing it in the siren, I used it again and then the next weakest link in the chain broke, which was another PLA part. After reprinting the entire gearchain in PETG, it's now bulletproof and doesn't break. PETG is a better gear material than PLA in my experience.

  • Reply Andy Laurence February 2, 2020 at 1:45 pm

    Perhaps in future you could compare designs of the same weight, rather than the same dimensions? I'd be interested to see if lighter filaments can be better through use of more filament.

  • Reply 12setver February 2, 2020 at 1:45 pm

    Please test Priline carbon fiber polycarbonate! It's cheap and on Amazon

  • Reply Igor Fedik February 2, 2020 at 1:50 pm

    It looked like 250 degrees was a bit too high setting for PETG. I normally print in PETG at 230 degrees. I use PLA for models that require extreme overhangs without supports because PLA does not warp that much at cooling. PETG prints on other hand can be sanded wihout sacrificing a print appearance and are not that brittle. I normally use PETG for practical prints.

  • Reply Rod Snyder February 2, 2020 at 2:09 pm

    nice comparison. 🙂 very informative overview for beginners and experienced users alike. thx. 🙂 The usecase example with the drone at the end is very good.

  • Reply 3DFactory February 2, 2020 at 2:29 pm

    I m using ABS …. i still think is very easy to print and easy to work with the part after is printed . easy to make holes without cracking .

  • Reply Bigjeffrey123 February 2, 2020 at 2:54 pm

    I like Red filament's Spool much more since its made of cardboard

  • Reply José Torres February 2, 2020 at 3:05 pm

    This video is cool but unnecessary long. Too much clips with printing and showing the same pieces again and again…

  • Reply Underp4ntz February 2, 2020 at 3:18 pm

    Lately i'am only using Volcano PLA from formfutura, it's an really awesome filament PETG is also great but hard to work with prop making.

  • Reply andrewesquivel February 2, 2020 at 3:24 pm

    What would Gordon Ramsey say about your kitchen 🤔

  • Reply DELTACX10 February 2, 2020 at 3:37 pm

    Does Amazon not work in the UK or something?

  • Reply Mr Happy Face February 2, 2020 at 3:43 pm

    You were literally one day too late, I ordered some petg and pla from Prusa yesterday

  • Reply Mícheál Ó Dufaigh February 2, 2020 at 3:48 pm

    Do you have a video on how you made your enclosure?

  • Reply R3INHARD1 February 2, 2020 at 3:51 pm

    I’ve been having a lot of stringing issues with printing the PETG on an Ender 3. I have to find any information about using Prusament PETG using that printer, so I have basically given up because it didn’t work very well.

  • Reply Hazdazos February 2, 2020 at 4:26 pm

    Nice video. It's good to see these kinds of tests that are usually too involved for regular users to do, but I do want to point out that the colors for these materials should have been the same to help minimize variations.
    The carbon black used to create the black filament will change the properties of the base plastic differently than the pigments used to create orange and green. I know it wouldn't have been quite as pretty of a video if all the filaments were the same color but it would have been a little more scientific.
    Heck, maybe a future test you test different colors of the same material and see how much the color affects various properties. That might be interesting to watch.

  • Reply Glenn Edward Pace February 2, 2020 at 4:31 pm

    From an aircraft design perspective, quadcopter or otherwise, ASAs lower density looks really attractive. I can print something 15 percent bigger for the same filament weighty, and design members and walls 15% thicker. Since stress usually acts on the outside skin of a part first, that 15% bigger makes a big difference to the ultimate strength

  • Reply The N.M.E. February 2, 2020 at 4:34 pm

    I LOVE IT!

  • Reply SiFpv February 2, 2020 at 4:42 pm

    Tpu for all the flexible things. Rc bumbpers and camera cases etc. Sainsmart tpu!

  • Reply Hichinator February 2, 2020 at 4:52 pm

    Is there a particular reason why you glued 3D-Scanner target markers on your bending test jig?

  • Reply Chace Butterworth February 2, 2020 at 5:06 pm

    I have made a lot of things for my daily life including some chainsaw parts. I use PETG for everything now after some of my PLA parts warped in my car on a sunny day. Lately I've been doing some more detailed work with overhangs and bridges. I miss PLA's no hassle printability.

  • Reply adamfilip February 2, 2020 at 5:12 pm

    Pla+ is all I use now. No more petg for me

  • Reply Wind Catcher RC February 2, 2020 at 5:19 pm

    I use PETG for parts I put into my RC plane kits that I sell. Once tuned, PETG prints very well with no stringing. The only issue I get sometimes is the blobbing on the end of the nozzle. Due to the blobs I only print one part at a time to avoid a drip which ruins the part.
    I have not used ASA and will consider doing some testing this spring.
    Thanks for another great video!!

  • Reply Scott Jackson February 2, 2020 at 5:55 pm

    ASA and ABS must be printed without a cooling fan if strength is in any way a consideration. In my opinion, based on almost exclusively printing ABS, it’s because the fan cools it way too fast. If you slow down, you can “cool” the material and layer adhesion doesn’t suffer as much. I’m absolutely not surprised at how easily the samples failed. Have you ever done a cooling fan and printing speed comparison on ABS/ASA? That could be interesting.

  • Reply MrPashee February 2, 2020 at 6:57 pm

    Amazing test, Bro! Love your investigations!)

  • Reply Bastien Tararan February 2, 2020 at 7:55 pm

    Love your content Stefan !!

  • Reply Craig Trader February 2, 2020 at 8:43 pm

    My projects require dimensional accuracy and need to stand-up to relatively high temperatures (they are frequently stored in my car in the hot summer sun) — PETG is my go-to material for 3D printed parts.

  • Reply Svigers February 2, 2020 at 8:49 pm

    Makes me really interested to try out ASA and do some more testing w/ enclosures etc. However I'm printing in my relatively small room as I'm still studying, so any odor-emitting materials is a nogo until I get a larger place. So far I've come to love PETG for various practical prints or mechanical parts. The low fan speed is also a plus. PLA prints are reserved for various miniatures etc, which look really good with a .25mm nozzle and lower layer height.

  • Reply H. A. Tinoco February 2, 2020 at 9:07 pm

    Good video! this is also good https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxAiYmHLskU

  • Reply ripper9111 February 2, 2020 at 10:21 pm

    Very interesting video. I use PLA + which is also called 'Engineering' PLA. It would be interesting to see that included in the comparison to see how it fares against regular PLA, PETG and ASA.

  • Reply Robert Pirlot February 2, 2020 at 10:44 pm

    Those Spools look like they all are overshot. The holes show all flashing. Just a thought.

  • Reply Andrew Jong February 2, 2020 at 11:46 pm

    i am leaning toward ASA(ABS), sadly the fumes are bad, but i feel the longevity of the material is better than having something that wont last. although if its for a quick fix pla

  • Reply Marek Kozuchowski February 2, 2020 at 11:57 pm

    you have made ASA/ABS look really bad.
    and as for your question, i'm using pla – for prototyping and gizmos, abs – for most of my projects, and nylon when extra strength is needed, or for live hinges. couldn't find any use for petg as of yet…

  • Reply ElMariachi February 3, 2020 at 12:42 am

    Doesn't that camouflage green make the PSL look stronger?

  • Reply ElMariachi February 3, 2020 at 12:44 am

    What about a feature making the nozzle fan spin faster while extruding the first layer of an overhang?
    I can hardy imagine this hasn't been omplented into slicers, yet…

  • Reply JCA Sistemas February 3, 2020 at 1:17 am

    Excellent!!!

    Thanks for sharing your knowledge 🙂 🙂 🙂 🙂

    P/D: Very … very late but … HAPPY NEW YEAR !!! 🙂

  • Reply Kezat February 3, 2020 at 1:22 am

    I feel about the same as your conclusion, PLA is still my go to for most things, even mechanical situations.
    I use PETG when I need some flex or heat resistance.
    I never use ASA(ABS) I think of it has a harder to print PETG, so i just use PETG.
    If i need something to be indestructible i use Alloy 910 from Taulman.

  • Reply John O'Shaughnessy February 3, 2020 at 1:50 am

    Fantastic video. A person could spend their whole day testing filaments for weeks and weeks. You made excellent points about how different manufacturers “recipes” can really change the behavior of the material. It makes it really difficult to compare (for example) Prusament PLA, with Atomic PLA, with Inland PLA, etc. Speaking of Atomic — when you are here for MRRF, you should try to get a spool of the CF PETG and CF Nylon (and perhaps others) and do a comparison. Then you could compare the Atomic CF PETG (for example) with some different manufacturers CF PETG. Plenty of ideas if you get bored. :). Thanks again!

  • Reply Jarod Can Make It February 3, 2020 at 2:47 am

    I print the majority of things in PLA. i've found it easiest to print, and usually a little cheaper. If i need, and for things like Stepper motor mounts, where a little more strength is desired, i do use PETG. ABS/ASA never used. i have an open printer in a cold outdoor shop, so very difficult conditions for either. Not even gonna try.

  • Reply Isaac knouse February 3, 2020 at 3:16 am

    Can you please review the Anet et4

  • Reply Yury Makusev February 3, 2020 at 6:06 am

    I use improved PLA for low-functionality prototypes and reinforced materials, PP and PC for functional details. PETG, ABS and ASA don't meet with my requirements.

  • Reply Anjan Babu February 3, 2020 at 7:56 am

    Thank you for these experiments, they help me a lot in my own experiments. I've been using eSUN PLA+ for my 3D printed planes for a while now and they seem to perform better than the other materials like Flashforge & Wanhao filaments that I use. It'll be cool if you can compare the eSUN line up of materials experimentally, considering they're pretty inexpensive for the quality that I find in them. I use the PLA+ for fuselage parts & ABS+ for parts that may get hot like motor mounts. I do crude testing for stiffness by hanging weights on printed cantilevers & do drop tests for checking impact strength resistance.

  • Reply kendokaaa February 3, 2020 at 8:41 am

    I had a perfectly wound PETG roll but of course it got tangled real quick from regularly changing spools

  • Reply Marijn De Leede February 3, 2020 at 9:16 am

    @CNCKitchen: I think your tests are great and I often use your tests to make my design and material decisions in my projects. Also this video is fantastic! Would it be possible for next videos to test the creep characteristics?

    For example, applying a static load on some samples and measure the plastic deformation over time. To shorten the time frame, I think, you can increase the ambient temperature and plot a TTT(time-temperature-transformation)-diagram. It has been a while since I have done these kind of tests, but I am sure on the internet one can find proper test setups for the creep characteristics.

    I know you already did an oven test, that partially covers the subject I am talking about. But for the full picture, maybe some more tests are needed as mentioned above. As creep is an important phenomena to consider in the design of many projects, I am positive this will be highly appreciated by fellow engineers.

  • Reply Xaverderschnitzelfan February 3, 2020 at 11:06 am

    I use pla

  • Reply Haegar H February 3, 2020 at 11:22 am

    Zufall! Gerade meine ersten PETG Testprint gemacht und hier kommt gerade der Test den ich jetzt brauche 😉 Gibt es eigentlich auch noch eine Blogseite wo man deine umfangreichen Tests nachlesen kann? Es ist auf Dauer anstrengen immer nur YT Filmchen anzuschauen wenn man sich in das komplexe Thema einarbeiten will.

  • Reply adtawesome February 3, 2020 at 11:25 am

    Petg is way easier to sand and therefore finish than PLA. That has a huge impact for me, since i am required to turn finished and lackered model in. The little bit of stringing i get in some (specific) situations is easily dealt with a heatgun or a bit of sandpaper.

    Abs also sands better than pla, but obviously you can also vaporsmooth it.

    I would be very interested in how different materials (from different manufacturers?) perform in after print finish, sanding, reforming, and so on

  • Reply PurpleSim February 3, 2020 at 12:19 pm

    It would be good to see the performance of annealed Prusament PLA as well. It seems like if you don't need the best impact resistance, annealed Prusament PLA would be unbeatable when all factors taken into consideration.

  • Reply billys bikes February 3, 2020 at 1:07 pm

    amazing content i really like the way your brain works!

  • Reply Daniele Rossi February 3, 2020 at 1:55 pm

    How about you mix them?

  • Reply David Bentley February 3, 2020 at 3:10 pm

    I am not getting any stringing with my PTEG. Then again, I am using a Prusa I3 MK3s with a Bondtech/Mosquito Extruder.

  • Reply Mohit Gupta February 3, 2020 at 4:02 pm

    Is your logo inspired by the gan cube logo?

  • Reply Faceless27 February 3, 2020 at 5:25 pm

    Hi Stefan, could you please tell me which kind of enclosure you use for the Mk3? Would you share it with us, i want to build it too. It looks really nice and clean.

  • Reply Chilternflyer February 3, 2020 at 5:44 pm

    I make a lot of drone parts and camera mounts. All of my parts have to withstand being out doors and be impact resistant ;-). I used ABS for years until (Dutch) PETG become available through HobbyK.. I'm a complete convert to PETG now. That said, PLA is still best for precision parts.

  • Reply Thunderbird Anthares February 3, 2020 at 6:28 pm

    this is all amazing info
    is it compiled on any wiki by chance? i'd love to be able to just look it up… only getting my prusa mini next month (hopefully) and i will need to look up this stuff often before i learn it

  • Reply M G Berberich February 3, 2020 at 6:50 pm

    Hast Du mal Greentec Pro versucht? Das soll lebensmitteltauglich und temperaturbeständig sein.

  • Reply Jacob Falk February 3, 2020 at 7:56 pm

    I like ABS because I can split difficult parts, print them separately, and then glue them together with ABS glue.

  • Reply arrgh February 3, 2020 at 10:17 pm

    Is there Filament out there with spools out of reprintable material?

  • Reply Qwarzz February 4, 2020 at 5:29 am

    One interesting test to see might be UV resistance. Not quite sure how to properly test that but PLA tends to get really brittle in sun light which is why I avoid it for anything functional.

  • Reply Shell February 4, 2020 at 6:15 am

    Can you make a video on PA6-CF by Polymaker? Would love to see how that material performs in your tests but it does require a high temperature to print.

  • Reply parrottm76262 February 4, 2020 at 8:06 am

    Yet another very useful video w/data generally not covered elsewhere. So grateful for your efforts.

  • Reply photoSteff February 4, 2020 at 11:28 am

    So in conclusion: If I wanted to stiffen the frame of my Kossel LP, I should print the reinforcement-corners in PLA and not in PETG because it won't flex as much?

  • Reply Jim Richards February 4, 2020 at 3:08 pm

    Hi, I've been enjoying and learning from what you are doing and wanted to try a test of a couple of ideas I have. Would you be willing to send me a link to, or send me an stl file for the test hooks you are using? Thanks.

  • Reply Jeff Stephenson February 4, 2020 at 3:42 pm

    This would be interesting to see with annealed parts to see if that makes a difference on the different types of plastics.

  • Reply Julien Dodokal February 4, 2020 at 11:37 pm

    For me it's PETG all the big things. Easiest to print (always sticks perfectly to the build plate!) and is quite strong.
    For small items it's PLA because it has the best finish surface.
    ASA for high temps.

  • Reply Андрей Михайлов February 5, 2020 at 6:05 am

    Another important property of the material is easiness of post-processing. In case of ABS You can easily correct printed model mechanically or with acetone (acetone vapor), and also very strong glue different parts together with ABS juice.

  • Reply Смн Нетакой February 5, 2020 at 9:55 am

    Maybe next time it’s also worth freezing parts for research.
    How will they behave at sub-zero temperatures?
    It's also important for outdoor use.

  • Reply Synergy Tech February 5, 2020 at 5:53 pm

    LONG BITCOIN!

  • Reply astainless NOYB February 5, 2020 at 6:17 pm

    Would smoothing every layer during a print possibly make a stronger part?

  • Reply MakerMonkey February 5, 2020 at 7:56 pm

    Thanks for the video.

  • Reply Graham February 6, 2020 at 12:22 am

    Aye, you sound like a robot at 12:23
    Just thought I'd let you know

  • Reply jbalatutube February 6, 2020 at 11:07 am

    I was just about to order PETG too, trying some at work really like it for flexibility and temperature resistant so good for some projects, for a quadcopter I would use ABS since it’s lighter and impact resistant for high speed crashes. Now what’s the difference between ASA and ABS+ ? Also how is impact strength and temperature resistance of PLA+ after its been annealed ?

  • Reply Mercenary 05 February 6, 2020 at 2:14 pm

    Hy, i have 2 marlin ender 3 configurations , one of the i've used a time ago for my ender 3.
    Now i just got some new drivers but i get some errors on both configurations. Does anybody know some other ender 3 configuration for mks gen l, tmc 2208 drivers…? I am stuck here from 2 days, i just don't find any configuration that work
    , i have all libraries installed
    here is my error;

    Error while detecting libraries included by C:UsersUserAppDataLocalTemparduino_build_633232sketchSd2Card.cpp
    C:UsersUserAppDataLocalTempcchqVvhi.ltrans0.ltrans.o: In function `Endstops::update() [clone .part.1]'

    <artificial>:(.text+0xbc6): undefined reference to `Running'
    C:UsersUserAppDataLocalTempcchqVvhi.ltrans0.ltrans.o: In function `Temperature::_temp_error(signed char, char const*, char const*)':
    <artificial>:(.text+0xc9c): undefined reference to `Running'
    <artificial>:(.text+0xcb4): undefined reference to `kill(char const*)'
    C:UsersUserAppDataLocalTempcchqVvhi.ltrans0.ltrans.o: In function `TIMER0_COMPB_vect_bottom':
    <artificial>:(.text+0x1124): undefined reference to `enqueue_and_echo_commands_P(char const*)'
    C:UsersUserAppDataLocalTempcchqVvhi.ltrans0.ltrans.o: In function `main':
    <artificial>:(.text.startup+0x264): undefined reference to `setup'
    <artificial>:(.text.startup+0x26c): undefined reference to `loop'
    collect2.exe: error: ld returned 1 exit status
    Multiple libraries were found for "U8glib.h"
    Used: C:UsersUserDocumentsArduinolibrariesU8glib
    Using library U8glib at version 1.19.1 in folder: C:UsersUserDocumentsArduinolibrariesU8glib
    exit status 1
    Error compiling for board Arduino Mega or Mega 2560.

  • Reply Dad's Friendly Robot Company February 6, 2020 at 3:43 pm

    You might want to try a double walled enclosure for ABS/ASA. Or an insulated one. You can also make a heated one with a space heater, a duct, a fan and a controller to exhaust the heat to keep it at a constant temperature.

  • Reply Ogk10 February 6, 2020 at 8:45 pm

    How about a 3D printed motherboard shroud?

  • Reply Beach&BoardFan February 7, 2020 at 12:31 am

    Holy hell would you please do this with resins!

  • Reply Wernerrrrr February 7, 2020 at 11:34 am

    I use Devil Design filament at €18 for 1KG PLA or PETG which gives me good results on my Prusa. Bought but haven't tested their €20/KG ASA yet. You can see the winding is not nearly as good but I never experienced problems with that after using up 4+ spools. I just can't justify the price difference. And it's sold in a shop near where I live, which is very handy.

  • Reply Brad Whitehead February 7, 2020 at 3:08 pm

    Please consider adding a link to your blog on your channel. I looked for it and couldn't find it.

  • Reply Irish Rabbit February 7, 2020 at 5:03 pm

    Will be interesting to see GreenTec Pro and GreenTePro Carbon in the similar test.

  • Reply Gary Graham February 7, 2020 at 7:35 pm

    New subscriber 👍
    I'm looking at either a Creality CR-10s or an Accuuracy Geeetech A10t with triple extruder 3d printer.
    With the triple extruder, I'm thinking of mixing carbon fibre filament inside a PLA piece.
    What would you recommend?

  • Reply Fun Guy February 7, 2020 at 11:13 pm

    Thank you for the detailed comparison!!

  • Reply negi Sprinfield February 7, 2020 at 11:22 pm

    I'm curious to see how well PEEK performs in comparison

  • Reply Ragnarok February 8, 2020 at 11:23 am

    Gutes englisch

  • Reply Boštjan Čadež February 8, 2020 at 4:08 pm

    What about max printing speed? I know I can print PETG way faster than PLA. Havent tried ASA yet..

  • Reply poppy poppy February 8, 2020 at 4:57 pm

    What about a exterior of tpu with a infill of pla? This would require a dual setup of course.

  • Reply olivier briand February 8, 2020 at 5:37 pm

    I see nobody in the replies mentioning 3d870 pla. Even with no heat treatment this pla is great and with heat treatment it is really becoming awesome …

  • Reply Federico K February 8, 2020 at 11:54 pm

    one year testing prints with PETG and found big really big differences of it strength changing speed/temp/fan cooling… allways same material provider to go straight with testes… my better settings work also much better using hard steel nozzle. Temp 242ºC, speed 25mm/s, fan 35%, nozzle size 0.4mm and here the ultimate trick line with 0.48-0.5 depends on wich fit's better on each kind of piece, that puts more pressure between layers and bond it absurdly strong. May be you can try some tests with that settings and see what happens. For the record recently use PETG+PC (policarbonate) and strong came up too much better than ordinary PETG with 5 dolars difference on price!

  • Reply Jeff Vader February 9, 2020 at 12:12 am

    Love these videos. I've actually used PLA before to 3d print model rocket nozzles, and as long as the burn times were short it held up pretty well. I only saw about 1mm of erosion over a 1 second burn, since the nozzles were single use anyway this wasn't a problem.

    Might post the testing footage when I've got time to put together a video.

  • Reply Socialus February 9, 2020 at 4:14 am

    What about something like Ninjaflex?

  • Reply Xharig February 9, 2020 at 11:09 am

    Deine Videos sind echt Gut, kannst du die vielleicht auch auf Deutsch machen?
    @CNC Kitchen

  • Reply moinsen40k February 9, 2020 at 9:27 pm

    Hey, welchen Slicer benutzt du? Gruß

  • Reply NurettinS. February 10, 2020 at 4:42 pm

    There is a material called STH from Turkish manufacturer ABG Filaments it has the ease of PLA when its printing, strength of this is outstanding compared to the ABS and PETG and has the heat resistance of PETG without any bad petroleum smell and its just 120 Turkish Liras (Approx. 20 Euros)

  • Reply Justin Keys February 10, 2020 at 9:28 pm

    ASA comes out matte, good to know 😉

  • Reply Kevin Morrison February 11, 2020 at 5:48 pm

    One test I was looking forward to but you didnt do is for dimensional accuracy. Please consider testing for this parameter as it really is a critical component for those of us who are prototyping or manufacturing for industrial products and applications. Its one of the most costly for me since despite these manufacturers all touting their brands as being dimensionally accurate (I would settle for just being consistent), more often than not the fall short or flat on their face in this regard… Thanks for these tests, it is super useful and helpful!

  • Reply Mask Master. PL February 11, 2020 at 9:15 pm

    Ty jesteś Polakiem?
    BO masz polskie imię

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